上星期接到TA天母店V小姐來電，說本週六有Z小姐自美國帶回的白酒一瓶，要與眾人共享。由於剛好要回台北，且想想許久未與天母店眾酒友見面，因此就答應如期赴約了。週六下午到達天母店後不久新認識了一位酒友F君，聊著聊著他便推來一杯Amiot-Servelle 的Chambolle Musigny les Amoureuses 1996。Amiot-Servelle 位於Chambollle Musigny村內，其葡萄園總面績約7公頃，年產量約三萬瓶，算是間小規模的酒莊。在『The Great Domanines of Burgundy』一書中曾提到莊主Christian Amiot認為早期對於Chambolle酒就該清淡、優雅的觀念是種誤解，因此他致力於提升酒的深度與複雜度。這次喝到的Chambolle Musigny les Amoureuses 1996保存狀況似乎不是很好，香氣部份算是正常，主要是紅莓果及一些草莓風味，靜置之後則出現一些甘草及燻烤風味；口感部份則是問題的來源，帶有明顯的酒精感且尾韻有些粗糙。
接下來太上皇D與書記官S陸續到達，自己這才知道原來當天聚會的目的是要替太上皇D祝壽；而稍早已喝了兩瓶紅酒的F君此時已呈現茫茫然狀，之後便消失無蹤。待當天勃根地基礎班的品酒課程結束後，由於「教材」都還有剩餘，眾人便相當自動的負起清理善後的任務。Mikulski的Meursault Genevrieres 2002口感飽滿，外放的香氣有著榛果及一些杏、桃風味，木桶系的風味明顯。相較之下，Paul Pernot的Les Pucelles 2002在香氣及口感方面則較為纖細勻稱。William Fevre的Chablis Montee de Tonnerre 2002酒色極淡，果香不甚明顯，反而以橡木桶系風味為主。至於Bernard Morey的Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 2002則因為手腳慢了一步，已經被其餘眾人分光了。
書記官S帶來一隻德國紅酒：Weingut des Grafen Neipperg Wurttemberg Redwine Trocken 1999，葡萄品種不明。大伙為了驗明它的正身上網搜尋了半天，但好像也沒討論出個結果。這家酒莊的特別之處是它與波爾多右岸的知名酒莊Chateau Canon-La Gaffeliere同屬Neipperg先生的產業，因此兩個酒莊的徽章長得一模一樣。這隻酒在剛倒入杯中時有著黑、紅莓果的香氣且橡木桶的風味明顯，靜置之後則變成燻烤風味主導。不過，這隻酒過於明顯且不甚細緻的木桶風味使得整體香氣的平衡度降低了不少。整體口感略帶緊澀，複雜度並不算高，過了約一小時之後杯中酒的酸度變得十分明顯，尾韻變得粗糙。
壽星太上皇D所準備的則是Piemonte知名酒莊Ceretto的產品，Bricco Rocche Barolo Prapo 1996香氣帶有黑莓及巧克力風味，靜置後則出現一些燻烤及甘草風味。口感十分厚實強勁，目前雖然算是進入適飲階段，但此酒充裕的單寧加上足夠的酸度顯示它擁有相當的陳年實力。過了約一個多小時後原本紮實的單寧略有軟化、酸度較之前略為上升，整體均衡度較之前為佳。
勃根地名門Armand Rousseau的Clos de la Roche 1998酒色是偏淺的紅寶石色，香氣有著草莓、覆盆子以及多種紅色莓果的風味。單寧已十分柔軟，口感屬於豐腴甜美型，相當易飲但是層次感及複雜度稍弱，令人有些失望。
C小姐所提供Chateau La Lagune 1999表現出十足的波爾多風格。香氣是著雅緻的黑醋栗香，稍微靜置後則帶有一些咖啡及木桶系的燻烤風味；單寧細緻而柔順，口感相當不錯。只是，順序排在雄壯威武的Barolo之後喝，此酒感覺好像沒有單寧一樣。
甫從美國遊歸的Z小姐扛回一隻Flowers Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2002要與眾酒友分享，據說此酒是自法學成歸國的專業人士N君所推薦。由於之前眾人只顧著杯中紅酒而暫時將它遺忘，因此它在天母店那曾經爆過Kurg的冰箱冷凍庫中躺了好一陣子才與大家見面。初倒入杯中時溫度過低，只聞得出一些淡淡的酵母風味，待溫度逐漸回升之後，各種熱帶水果、礦石及哈密瓜的風味才一一出現，之後則是發展出一些奶油及玉米的風味，有點像是Meursault或是Chassagne-Montrachet的白酒。口感屬於飽滿型，但又不至於過份；尾韻則是略帶礦物風味及苦味。
重頭戲－切蛋糕時光是由V小姐替壽星買來的酒釀櫻桃蛋糕搭配C小姐所提供的粉紅鮭魚挑起大樑。不過，當時因為自己從下午一路喝至晚上已不勝酒力，只能坐在旁邊喝熱茶配蛋糕，待稍事休息之後，立刻又加入享用甜酒的行列中。
當晚的甜酒是由b律師帶來的Joh. Jos. Prum, Riesling Auslese Gold Cap Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Wehlener Sonnenuhr 1995。早先酒主曾表示這隻酒的保存狀況可能不佳，而待酒倒入杯中後，沉悶的香氣似乎印證了這點。然而，過了不久之後這隻酒的香氣逐漸舒展開來，淡淡柑橘及柚子風味十分怡人。不過，就酒主表示當晚這隻酒的香氣不若他上次喝到時來得典雅多變。此酒的口感頗為細緻均衡，尾韻帶有明顯的礦石風味，果然是系出名門的佳釀，而它也是個人當天最喜歡的酒。
接下來之前喝得茫茫而暫時消失的F君又重新加入，帶來的是Chataeu Gazin 2001與Chateau Ruzan-Segla 1996。不過，對於這兩隻波爾多酒的表現自己只能用失望二字形容。Chateau Gazin 2001帶有一些黑莓及木桶的氣味，口感仍然相當封閉而生澀，有酒友認為它的單寧細緻度不差，不過關於此點個人持保留態度。Rauzan-Segla 1996在經過decant之後有著一些黑莓果類的香氣，但整體表現實在不像一隻二級酒莊該有的水準。在杯中約莫半小時酸度急速上升，實在難以下嚥，身邊的酒友喝過之後亦有如是感想。
關於這次的聚會壽星太上皇D與書記官S都有詳盡且精彩的描述，可以參考
「多B雜交夜」
http://mypaper.pchome.com.tw/news/caskroom/3/1242439626/20041117010107/
及
「「酒池肉林」的慶生會......(2004.11.13) 」
http://mypaper.pchome.com.tw/news/mikesun/3/1242387324/20041114230032/
二文。
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Amiot-Servelle, Chambolle Musigny les Amoureuses 1996
WA: 91-93
This wine has a bright, medium-to-dark ruby color and a delightfully elegant and fresh nose of violets, roses, blueberries, and cherries. It explodes on the palate with layered and deeply ripe black cherries, mocha, and toasted oak flavors. This feminine, refined, medium-to-full-bodied, and silky wine also possesses a formidably long and supple finish. Drink it between 2002 and 2008.
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Ceretto, Bricco Rocche Barolo Prapo 1996
WS: 91
Decadent, forward wine, but delicious. Complex aromas of tobacco, berry, mushrooms and flowers. Full-bodied, with layers of ripe fruit and velvety tannins. Finish goes on and on with smoky, berry character. Best after 2001. (JS)
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Chateau La Lagune 1999
WS: 87
Very pretty blackberry, tobacco and cedar aromas. Medium-bodied, with fine tannins and a medium, fruity aftertaste. Best after 2004. 16,665 cases made. (JS)
WA: 81-84
Light-bodied, but decently balanced, this pleasant, picnic-styled claret exhibits a medium ruby color in addition to herbaceous, earthy, red fruit flavors, toasty new oak, and a short, but unobtrusive finish. Drink it over the next 5-6 years.
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Joh. Jos. Prum,
Riesling Auslese Gold Cap Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Wehlener Sonnenuhr 1995
WS:90
Beautiful and balanced. Loads of pie crust and spice aromas. Medium-bodied and medium sweet, with a lot of flavor on the finish. JJ does it again. Drink now. (JS)
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Chateau Gazin 2001
WS: 89
This wine starts off herbal, with aromas of green tobacco, green olives and blackberries. With some air, the green character turns to coffee and blackberry. It delivers a full body with velvety tannins. Some might find it slightly overextracted but it's impressive. Best after 2006. 5,330 cases made. (JS)
WA: 94
A sleeper of the vintage, and possibly the finest Gazin I have ever tasted, the 2001 reveals the best integration of oak at this property in many years. An opaque plum/purple color is accompanied by a glorious bouquet of burning embers, roasted meats, espresso, and sweet plum and blackberry fruit. Richer and deeper than it appeared from barrel, with a tremendous finish, this full-bodied, impressive effort represents a breakthrough for Gazin. There are 6,000 cases of this 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc blend. One of the more backward wines of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020+.
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Chateau Ruzan-Segla 1996
WA: 88
The dense, ruby/purple-colored, unfriendly-styled 1996 is tannic, backward, and in need of 8-10 years of cellaring. The wine does seem to possess the requisite fruit and extract, however, to stand up to its powerful structure. Although pure and rich, this wine should not be touched for at least a decade. The sweet cassis aromas of this Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated wine are combined with floral and mineral notes. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025.
