前陣子受邀參加一場香檳酒會，酒全是主人千里迢迢從法
國扛回來的。當天幾款香檳同場較勁的結果雖然是高下立
判，但均十分可口。酒會詳情及酒款介紹可參考酒主的文
章「天與地之間」。
http://mypaper.pchome.com.tw/news/cathyho78/3/1240988887/20040906231447/
學校即將開學，因此得回到台南繼續學業。這個暑假因為
葡萄酒的關係認識了不少前輩及朋友，也喝到了許多難得
的好酒，當然還有最後那張紅單。總之，這是個難忘的假
期。之後在台南的期間，因為環境的關係可能會以大賣場
的酒為主。雖然以品質而論，低價酒最終難以與高價酒相
提並論，不過，能夠找到便宜又大碗的品項亦是美事一樁
吧。
以下將這幾天喝到的酒簡單作個紀錄。
=============================
Chateau de Fonsalette,
Cotes du Rhone Reserve 1995
剛倒入杯中時香氣帶有一些香料以及櫻桃般的風味，口感
不甚厚實，豐富度也不是頂好；尾韻感覺有點水水的，酒
精的感覺相當明顯。過了一段時間之後出現一些甘草香，
整體狀況雖略有改善但仍不盡令人滿意。查了一下兩大強
權的酒評發現它們對於這隻酒的看法不甚相同，就自己的
經驗是較接近WS的評論。
WS:84
This chewy red offers vivid flavors of kirsch and chocolate, with impressive
ripeness and concentration, but the aggressive tannins dominate the fruit,
and the wine turns a bit rustic on the finish. Best from 1999 through 2001.
(TM)
WA:90
The 1995 Chateau Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone is a twenty-year wine that requires
4-5 years of cellaring. It exhibits a black/purple color, good acidity and
tannin, a closed, dense, moderately tannic personality, exceptional richness,
and a powerful, full-bodied finish. Yields of 30 hectoliters per hectare were
slightly higher than the 15-20 achieved in 1996. This is a wine for those who
cannot find or afford to purchase Rayas.
=============================
Bonneau du Martray,
Corton-Charlemagne 2000
屬於內斂風格的香氣帶有燻烤、奶油玉米及熱帶水果風味
；酒體飽滿且富酸度，口感相當年輕，尾韻帶有微苦，整
體均衡度相當不錯。不過，過了約兩小時之後酒質開始走
下坡，稍晚喝到這隻酒的某酒友認為尾韻已有些渙散，以
此酒莊之盛名似乎令人有些失望。
WS:95
Beautiful white Burgundy, incredibly ripe yet very pure and showing lovely
mineral character. Some toasted oak, but mostly ripe pear, tropical and lime
notes. Full-bodied, it sings on the palate to a long, long juicy and sweet
finish. Drink now through 2012. 3,200 cases made. (PM)
WA:94
Shame on me! I vastly under-rated this estate's 2000 Corton-Charlemagne in my
barrel assessment a year ago (originally scored 88-90). The finest wine I've
ever tasted from this famed domaine, it reveals a rich nose of ripe pears,
buttered hazelnuts, and minerals. Medium-bodied, lush, intense, and satin-
textured, it has exceptional balance, refinement, and a stupendously long
finish. While it is not the most powerful Corton-Charlemagne, it has superb
focus, detail, and seamlessness. Toast, spices, pears, and ripe apples can be
found throughout its complex character. If this wine continues to improve in
the bottle as it did in the final months of elevage, it will be completely
mind-boggling. Projected maturity: 2005-2016.
=============================
Bernard Morey,
Meursault Genevrieres Hospices de Beaune 1997
香氣是濃郁的桃、梨及熱帶水果香，口感圓潤飽滿但酸度
仍足夠，現在已十分成熟好喝。與上次由Colin-Deleger
裝瓶的酒相較，這隻酒的香氣多了幾分果香、少了幾分木
桶系的風味，整體而言更為討喜。
=============================
Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux 1995
這隻酒的香氣主要是黑莓果類的風味，配合一些木桶所帶
出來的燻烤及麵包屑類的氣味。酒體中等，酸度相當明顯
，明顯到接近尖銳、令人覺得不甚均衡的地步。單寧細緻
程度不錯，尾韻則是帶有一些奶油、麵包屑的感覺。
WS:91
Lots of violet and berry in this wine, lively toasted oak character, too.
Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a medium, smoky finish. An amazing
second label from a top estate. Best after 2002. (JS)
WA:89
This estate's second wine, the 1995 Pavillon du Chateau Margaux, may turn
out to be one of the most delicious examples the property has made. The wine
is forward, sexy, round, and generous, with gobs of black fruit and a subtle
dosage of new oak. It should drink well for 10-15 years.
=============================
Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe,
Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 1999
相當濃郁的香氣有著黑莓果類的氣味及胡椒、香料味，以
及一些烤培根的氣味。口感相當年輕，酒體紮實且不失圓
潤，單寧仍相當充足，但某一些地方予人不甚協調之感。
個人以為是時機未至之故，但某位酒友卻對其未來發展性
感到懷疑。
p.s. 這隻酒當天沒有喝完，因此交由某酒友帶回。就他的
回報，過了約一天之後香氣以果香為主，酒體相當的
柔細。
WS:91
Beautiful Rhone red. Full-bodied, rich and ripe, with plum and blackberry
notes and some real tannic grip. Mineral edge adds complexity to this
impressive Chateauneuf. Built for the cellar. Best from 2003 through 2010.
16,665 cases made. (PM)
=============================
Chateau Rauzan Segla 1994
剛入杯時帶有典型黑醋粟的香氣，以及一些木頭與類似濕
泥土的氣味；過了一陣子則是出現甘草味。酒體中等，單
寧細緻度不錯。整體架構稍嫌簡單了些，但現在喝仍然十
分可口。
WS:90
Fabulous aromas of vanilla, toasted oak and fruit, ultrafine tannins and a
long, caressing finish. All in finesse. From a winery on the fast track to
the top. Drink or hold
WA:87
A saturated dark purple color is accompanied by sweet, earthy, herb, and
blackcurrant aromas. The wine is dominated by its tannin and structure.
There is good weight, medium body, and an impression of ripeness and sweet
fruit, but patience will most definitely be required. The 1994 Rauzan-Segla
was deeper and richer prior to bottling, so I suspect it may be going through
an ungenerous, post-bottling dormancy. This muscular, virile style of Rauzan
should be at its peak of maturity between 2006-2020.
=============================
Doamine Jacques-Frederic Mugnier,
Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses 2000
剛倒入杯中時的香氣難以形容，帶有一些青草、薄荷、及
一些類似果香系的氣味。過了一陣子則發展出甜美的莓果
香，加上一些木桶帶出來的燻烤及奶油風味。酒體以勃根
地而言偏厚，但口感有些生澀，仍能感受到單寧的稜角；
此外，這隻酒整體而言令人覺得有些鬆散，各個元素之間
並沒有融合得很好。不過，當時因為搭配食物，味覺多少
受到影響，故無法仔細分辨這隻酒的風味，因此或許是錯
怪它了。
=============================
Domaine Francois Lamarche
Clos de Vougeot 1997
剛倒入杯中時是紅莓果類的香氣，之後發展出一些甘草、
草蓆等草本植物風味，整體香氣略顯單薄。口感的豐富度
不甚佳，酒質已略顯老態。
=============================
Chateau Lynch Bages 1970
相當棒的一隻老酒。倒入杯中時蕈菇、中藥材等風味明顯，
晃杯之後黑梅風味浮現；而當天一位前輩久未晃杯，杯中則
是多了香甜的果醬風味。口感圓潤而稠密，單寧相當細緻而
柔軟，整體架構及均衡度相當不錯。雖然仍有陳年空間，但
是未必會比現在的表現更佳。
WS:90 (15-May-93)
Deep ruby-garnet; concentrated tar and cassis nose; firm, rich and stylish,
with concentrated cassis underlay; very plump and full.
WA:91 (Jun-00)
The 1970 is an old style Lynch Bages with plenty of dry tannin in the finish.
Compellingly aromatic, it offers aromas of cedar wood, spice box, tobacco,
earth, black currants, and new saddle leather. Spicy, concentrated, and burly,
with mouth-searing tannin, this big, thick wine is a terrific example of Lynch
Bages made in an older style. It will continue to last for 10-15 years, but
look for it to become increasingly austere and attenuated. Anticipated
maturity: now-2015.
