前些天以「觀察員」的身份參加了某知名酒會的固定聚會,
餐廳選在慶城街上的Joyce Cafe。該會的成員多是知名的愛
酒人,每次聚會所喝的酒款都可以讓個人這種菜鳥流上半天
口水,這次能有機會參加自是十分榮幸。當天的酒單如下:
Veuve Clicquot, Brut Rose Champagne Reserve 1997
Pavillon Blanc du Chateau Margaux 2000
William Ferve, Chablis Les Clos 2002
Bernard Morey, Chassagne Montrachet Cailleret 2002
Domaine Leflaive, Puligny Montrachet Les Combettes 1998
Robert Groffier, Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses 1996
Remizieres, Remizieres Hermitage Cuvee Emilie 2000
Cote de Baleau 2000
Carruades de Lafite Rothschild 1995
Chateau Figeac 1995
Chateau Palmer 1995
Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage La Chapelle 1999
Pepper Tree, Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra 2000
Diamond Creek, Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Volcanic Hill 1993
接下來原本應當要記述當晚各酒款的飲用心得的,不過這次
姑且就用一句「當晚的酒都很精彩」帶過吧。聚會結束之後
騎上機車欲前往誠品與酒友續攤喝咖啡,不料卻在環亞百貨
後巷被人民保姆欄下臨檢,吹氣之後當場破功,以違反道路
交通管理處罰條例35條第一項第一款收到紅單一張,罰鍰金
額十分嚇人,換算成Leroy或是DRC已經可以買到相當不錯的
酒款,存款因而去了大半。在此要奉勸各位酒友還是要做到
「酒後不開車,開車不喝酒」,否則一但有個萬一,那可真
是賠了夫人又折兵,絕對划不來。
關於相關裁罰基準請參考「違反道路交通管理事件統一裁罰
基準表」。
http://www.judge.taipei.gov.tw/law-910901.htm
===============================================
Domaine Leflaive,
Puligny Montrachet Les Combettes 1998
WS:93
Refined and harmonious white Burgundy. Gorgeous silky and thick midpalate,
offering concentrated fruit, honey and well-dosed toasted oak character.
Full-bodied, with a vanilla bean note, this beauty lingers on the graceful
finish. 70 cases imported. (PM)
===============================================
Robert Groffier,
Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses 1996
WA:93
This medium-to-dark ruby-colored wine is a grand cru in quality, if not
officially. Its perfumed nose of roses, sweet red fruits, blackberries,
and hints of freshly laid asphalt leads to a stunning, medium-to-full-bodied,
and silky-textured personality. Readers will be enthralled by this wine's
richness, purity, and precision, as well as by its extraction and depth of
fruit. It offers intense layers of black cherries, Asian spices, and just a
faint hint of new oak toastiness. This refined, yet muscular, and formidably
long Amoureuses is a formidable wine. Drink it between 2003 and 2010. This
wine was a first-rate example of its terroir. The meticulous work of Serge
Groffier (Robert's son) in the vineyards is evidenced by each glassful of
nectar from this well-known and certainly soon-to-be-famous domaine. This
wine was bottled unfined and unfiltered between December 1, 1997 and
mid-January, 1998.
===============================================
Cote de Baleau 2000
WS:90
A pretty and refined red, with chocolate, berry and cherry character.
Medium-bodied, with ripe tannins and a medium finish. Lovely red. Best
after 2005. (JS)
WA:90
From the Reiffers family, who are also responsible for two other up and
coming St.-Emilions, Clos St.-Martin and Grandes Murailles, this is another
outstanding wine. Deep purple-colored, it exhibits sweet cherry, plum, and
currant aromas and flavors with subtle mineral and wood notes, excellent
texture, medium to full body, and ripe tannin. The overall impression is a
well-delineated, impeccably elegant wine with class and grace. Michel Rolland
does the oenological consulting for all of the Reiffers' estates. Anticipated
maturity: 2006-2018.
===============================================
Carruades de Lafite Rothschild 1995
WS:90
Rich and decadent, an outstanding second wine. Earthy, with tobacco, cherry
and bark aromas. Full- to medium-bodied, with velvety tannins and a medium
aftertaste. Best after 2000. (JS)
WA:87
I have noticed in my tastings that the second wine of Lafite-Rothschild,
Carruades de Lafite, has improved over recent years. The 1995 is a 40% Merlot
/60% Cabernet Sauvignon blend. It exhibits more of the trademark
characteristics of its bigger sibling. Elegant, with spicy new oak, lead
pencil, and creamy black currant fruit, this is a medium-bodied, finesse
-styled wine with excellent purity and overall equilibrium. It is much more
accessible than the 1996, and should drink well between now and 2010.
===============================================
Chateau Figeac 1995
WA:89
The 50th anniversary release of the proprietors, the Manoncourt family, the
1995 Figeac is a gorgeously complex, dark ruby-colored wine that is all
delicacy and complexity. The multidimensional, alluring, smoky, toasty, Asian
spice, menthol, and cherry-scented nose is followed by soft, round, rich,
kirsch-like flavors intermixed with black currants, herbs, and weedy tobacco.
While it is less impressive in the mouth, the nose is outstanding. This is a
soft, forward style of Figeac that can be drunk young or cellared.
Anticipated maturity: Now-2010.
===============================================
Chateau Palmer 1995
WS:94
Elegant and beautiful. Outstanding Palmer. Extremely pretty aromas of black
cherries and vanilla. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, cherry,
vanilla aftertaste. A delightful wine. Best after 2000. 14,500 cases made. (JS)
WA:90
Bottled in July, 1997, this wine includes an extremely high percentage of
Merlot (about 43%). It is a gloriously opulent, low acid, fleshy Palmer that
will be attractive early and keep well. Dark ruby/purple-colored, with smoky,
toasty new oak intertwined with gobs of jammy cherry fruit, and floral and
chocolate nuances, this medium to full-bodied, plump yet elegant wine is
impressive. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2020.
===============================================
Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage La Chapelle 1999
WS:91
Pretty, with a supple opulence enveloped in fat tannins and ripe fruit.
Delivers plum, blackberry and black cherry character. Tight and firm for
now, even closed. Needs time. Best from 2003 through 2010. 7,500 cases
made. (PM)
===============================================
Diamond Creek,
Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Volcanic Hill 1993
WS:89
Still shows plenty of restraint, with its Bordeaux-like presentation of
tight, earthy currant, overlay of cedar and tobacco and flashes of mineral,
leather and tar. Gains complexity on the finish even as the tannins reveal
their youth. Decant.--1993 California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now
through 2010. 1,400 cases made. (JL)