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1999 Barolo Tasting.

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1999 Domaine Henri Billiot Grand Cru Ambonnay
12%.
洋梨、蘋果等果香與礦石氣味,清新甜美。
氣泡充沛,甜美可口,年輕活潑的口感,非常清爽,熟蘋果等果香,酸度良好,餘韻長,平衡,full-bodied,好喝。與98年相比似乎更新鮮更有活力。

2005 Vincent Giradin Corton Charlemagne
13.5%.
奶油、香草、鳳梨片等香氣,非常甜美。
酸度高,強勁,餘韻長且偏甜,些微發苦,桶味為主,煙燻、香草味道,有酒精感,酒體整合不佳,酸味分離。

1999 Luciano Sandrone Barolo DOCG ”Le Vigne”
14.5%.
起初有鹹菜、櫻桃、香料、腐土、菇菌類等香氣,還有中藥草味道與花香,香氣一開始比較複雜精彩,醒酒一個多小時之後就大概以黑色漿果與中藥草香氣為主。
單寧強,中度至重度酒體,結構良好,比Clerico細膩均衡,細緻可口,不過變化和複雜度不如Giacomo Conterno和Giuseppe Mascarello。

1999 Azienda Agricola Clerico Barolo C. M. Ginestra
14.5%.
奶油、甜玉米、櫻桃、可口可樂等非常年輕和甜美的香氣,感冒糖漿、煙草、香草、薄荷等,起初很接近新世界cabernet之類紅酒的香氣,但大約一個多小時之後氣味類型與Sandrone越來越接近。
單寧強硬,重度酒體,強勁的桶味、甜玉米味道,香氣很甜,但口感卻有滿高的酸度,餘韻長,結構良好,濃郁,但不太均衡,單寧也略粗。

1999 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia
14%.
一開始就有非常明顯的草莓香氣,且持續了很久,甜美奔放,不過隱約有像是生鐵的金屬類味道,後續出現花香與柑橘類果香。
單寧結實,結構與酸度均佳,full-bodied,甜美細緻,口感均衡而且集中,現在喝很好喝,但也有良好的陳年潛力。

1999 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato
13.5%.
剛開始有紙板味道,但很快就消散了,脂粉、花香味道是四支當中最鮮明的,另外也有濃郁的櫻桃、草莓香氣,甜美細膩。
口感非常飽滿有力,full-bodied,複雜集中,均衡而且細緻,非常複雜有深度的口感,現在喝很好喝,但結構和活力顯示應該還有很好的陳年能力,這也是今天我最喜歡的一款,個性和95年完全不同。

1995 Giuseppe Quintarelli Recioto della Valpolicella Classico(375ml)
14.5%.
香氣濃郁,葡萄汁味道,像是不帶酒精感的白蘭地或不具氧化味的波特酒,還有香料與塑膠製品味道。
口感與香氣有著很大的不同,有明顯的單寧感,燻烤類的香氣為主,如巧克力、咖啡之類,但也有檸檬、柑橘果味,集中甜美,但也保有良好的酸度,餘韻很長,細緻而不厚重,幾乎沒有氧化味道,與另幾家曾經喝過的知名酒莊的recioto相比完全不同,是相當奇特的經驗。

2008.6.27.

紅酒WA評分與預測適飲期:
1. Luciano Sandrone Barolo le Vigne 1999

(1)Daniel Thomases (2003年12月)94 Anticipated maturity: 2006-2022.
I generally prefer Le Vigne, which uses the grapes of a variety of sites in the eastern part of the zone, and the 1999 Barolo Le Vigne is no exception. These soils give a more concentrated Nebbiolo, and the powerfully smoky, tarry, and floral aromas of this Barolo are echoed on the palate, with large-framed, deep, and potent flavors, very mineral and with excellent spice. It is superior in density, texture, and drive.

(2)Antonio Galloni(2006年4月) 95(?) 93/drink after 2009
1999 Barolo Le Vigne’Medium ruby. The 1999 Le Vigne presents a highly aromatic, perfumed nose and gorgeous layers of bright, focused red fruit on a medium-bodied frame, with excellent length and concentration. This firmly structured Barolo remains a model of restrained elegance and finesse that strikes a gorgeous balance between traditional and modern expressions of Barolo. It will benefit from a few years of bottle age and drink well until age 20.

2. Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra 1999

Daniel Thomases (2003年12月) 93 Anticipated maturity: 2006-2022.
The 1999 Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra, as in the past several years, remains the standard bearer of the house. Lush and ripe on the nose, plummy and with important notes of kirsch liqueur, licorice, and minerals, its rich flavors, dense, packed texture, and ample tar and chocolate are the evidence of superior grapes and cellar work, force and finesse at a very high level.

3. Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 1999

(1)Antonio Galloni (2006) 95+/Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024.
The stunning 1999 Barolo Monprivato remains one of my favorite recent vintages of this wine, and my impression is that it will one day be regarded as one of the great Monprivatos of all time. Made in a rich, almost opulent style for this wine, the 1999 displays heady aromas of roses and sweet fruit, along with a more full-bodied profile than the 2001, with generous amounts of ripe fruit, outstanding length, exquisitely well-integrated tannins and a finish that lasts forever. As it sits in the glass, notes of minerals and tobacco gradually emerge to complete this magnificent Barolo. It is not to be missed.

(2)Antonio Galloni (2006年2月/ 3月)95+/drink after 2011, 02/06, 03/06
1999 Barolo Monprivato’Medium red. The 1999 Monprivato offers suggestions of flowers, sweet dark red fruit, licorice and minerals with notable weight on the palate, superb persistence and a final lingering note of sweetness on the fresh finish. It is an uncharacteristically rich and full bodied Monprivato at this stage and on this day it was absolutely amazing, dazzling tasters with its complexity, balance and sheer profoundness. As I have written in these pages before, Mascarello did not bottle his Riserva Ca’ d’Morissio in 1999 and there can be no doubt that the Monprivato benefits from the added richness of the fruit that might have otherwise gone into the Riserva. Monprivato remains one of the great values in Barolo and this 1999 is another wine that future generations will look back on as one of the vintage’s finest. I have been fortunate to taste older vintages of Monprivato on many occasions and this wine’s aging potential is decades. The 1999 is a must-have wine.

(3)Antonio Galloni (2005年11月) 94/drink after 2011
1999 Barolo Monprivato’Medium red. The 1999 Monprivato is a hypnotic, thrilling Barolo that continues to develop positively. It offers the complex notes of macerated cherries, menthol, minerals, and tar that are typical of this wine. I also noted a more pronounced alcoholic component than has been the case in previous tastings. The 1999 Monprivato appears to be following the usual trajectory of this wine. Understated at first, it has started to put on some weight and density after several years in the bottle, and with each successive tasting the wine’s true potential has gradually begun to emerge. Because there was no Ca’d’Morissio in 1999, the Monprivato benefits from greater richness and sweetness than is normally the case. It appears to be more structured and less accessible than the 2001 and is likely to reach maturity later. This Barolo should still be available at a favorable price, and readers would do well to have at least a few bottles in the cellar. Take it from someone who has tasted nearly every important vintage of this wine back to 1970-you won’t be sorry.

(4)Antonio Galloni (2005年5月) 93+ points/drink after 2014, tasted 05/05
1999 Barolo Monprivato’ Medium ruby with some bricking The gorgeous 1999 Monprivato offers a fresh nose of roses and minerals, and multiple layers of sweet dark red and black cherry flavors that unfold with great elegance, with tremendous length and overall balance.

(5)Antonio Galloni (2005年5月) 93 points/drink after 2014, tasted 05/05
1999 Barolo Monprivato’Lively medium red. This elegant and understated Barolo displays plenty of sweet cherry fruit and mineral flavors with a very pretty, layered quality. A delicate wine of great finesse and potential.

4. 1999 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia

(1)Antonio Galloni (2006年3月)A great effort. 94+/drink after 2009, 03/06
1999 Barolo Cascina Francia’Medium red. A classic in the making, the 1999 Cascina Francia offers a quintessentially pure expression of Nebbiolo in it aromas of roses, licorice and tar. It is powerful and potent on the palate, where endless layers of sweet fruit blossom with exceptional length. Though I expect it to be relatively accessible within a few years, it will also reward cellaring for several decades, and may ultimately be deserving of a higher score.

(2)Antonio Galloni (2005) 94 points/drink after 2009, tasted 05/05
1999 Barolo Cascina Francia’Dark lively red. The exceptional and outrageously decadent 1999 exemplifies the very best qualities of traditional Barolo. A wine of great length and persistence, it offers a multidimensional nose of sweet fruit, minerals and tar and a dense, layered personality bursting with flavors of dark ripe fruit, tar, roses and mint. Of these first four wines, the 1999 is clearly in a league of its own.

(3)Antonio Galloni (2004)92 points/drink 2005-2019
1999 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia ’This wine sees maceration of about 25 days, in a mixture of stainless steel and wood vats, with temperature controlled, and is then aged in large casks. Color is a light garnet. Incredibly clean and pure, this is textbook Barolo, with generous and persistent flavors of roses and licorice that go on and on. This alluring and irresistible Barolo is a wine for meditation.

台長: Gwaihir
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