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隆河頂級白酒巡禮-2005.9.10.

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1.M. Chapoutier -1998 Ermitage Blanc ”De l’Oree”
Grape varieties: Marsanne 100%

Deep Gold,也許是今天顏色最深的一瓶。
Honey,花香,蜜棗,加上一些很熟的果味,酒友A形容為煮過的鳳梨,酒友F說像「金牛角」。後續香氣變化相當豐富,還出現了像(罐頭)水蜜桃以及極成熟的波爾多白酒的香氣(跟先前喝過的Domaine de Chevalier 1975很像。)
酸度很不錯,中等至重度酒體,非常濃郁強勁然而又維持了很好的均衡,餘韻很長。酒精濃度14%,是今天最高的一支,強度和持續力都很棒,一開瓶就香氣襲人,中段雖然香氣沈寂了一陣子,但很快又重新展現。

酒莊本身的資料:
The average of these vines (60 to 70 years old) guarantees the high quality of production.
Couleur : Brilliant and golden.
Nez : Mineral, white fleshed fruits, dried apricot, slight musk scent.
Bouche : Well-balanced, fruity, apple compote, acidity contributing to a pleasantly fresh taste. An agreeable vanilla touch to woody notes.

RP:99pts
The 1998 Ermitage Cuvee de l’Oree’s explosive bouquet offers a liquid minerality, honeyed tropical fruits, peaches, and acacia flowers. Amazingly, the 100% new oak treatment has been totally absorbed. The wine is extremely full-bodied, fresh, and pure, with an immense palate presence as well as finish. Drink it over the next 4-5 years, or forget about it for a decade. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000

2.Domaine Jean-Louis Chave -1998 Hermitage Blanc
Grape varieties: Marsanne 80% / Roussanne 20%

金黃色。有蜂蠟以及爆米花、香草等木桶風味,礦物性質的香氣也很多,香氣豐富迷人,甚像高級的Bourgogne Blanc,酒友C說像Meursault。
口感也有Chardonnay的風味,飽滿、圓潤,強勁與細緻兼而有之,餘韻長、甜美,elegant。溫度上升之後香氣還是持續變化,原本不明顯的酸度也開始出現,感覺上這細緻的酸度只是因為先前被包覆在豐滿的口感中而不明顯。
整體的均衡協調使她成為今天我最喜歡的酒之一。13%。

RP:92pts
A retasting of the 1998 Hermitage blanc confirmed its brilliant quality. It is an elegant, floral-scented, structured white Hermitage. It boasts fabulous concentration, but is less flattering and precocious than either the 1999 or 2000.

3.Chateau de Beaucastel -1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc Vieilles Vignes
Grape varieties: Roussanne 100%

Deep Gold。
一開瓶時有頗重的木塞味,但還有一絲白花香氣,酒友紛紛懷疑這瓶酒是否有輕微的Corky問題,待開瓶近1個小時後,木塞氣味漸散,香氣越來越好,先出現乾藥草、草席味,後來有酸甜的蜜餞味道。
口感方面剛開始酒精感很重,口中也有木頭味,感覺有點平板,助長了大家對於是否Corky的懷疑,但酒體還是滿厚重強烈的,酸度高。口感不如先前喝過的1992年份來得豐富複雜,香氣也很不同,跟剛喝過的1999年份比起來也不大一樣,或者真的還需要一段時間讓她醒來。13.5%。

酒莊資料:
Area of production
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, between Orange and Avignon. The Chateau de Beaucastel white “Vieilles Vignes” (old vines) is 3 hectares / 7 acres in size. Old vines because they are at least 75 years old.
Vinification
Harvest picked and collected in baskets, selection of grapes, pneumatic pressing and clarification of the must, fermentation is made in barrels and 50% in stainless steel vats.

RP:92pts
The 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Roussanne Vieilles Vignes (produced from 50-year old vines) may not be very ostentatious or concentrated, but it is an extremely impressive wine with aromas and flavors of grapefruit, orange marmalade, honey, and white flowers. Full-bodied, dense, and super-concentrated, this is a stunningly pure winemaking tour de force that admirably demonstrates what can be achieved in selected terroirs of the southern Rhone. It should age beautifully for 20 years. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

4.Cave de Tain l’Hermitage 1998 Les Nobles

這是在北隆河區非常富有盛名的一家合作社,產品的品質一向被認為相當傑出,可惜台灣的代理商金醇似乎並沒有好好的經營他們的產品。
色澤接近一號酒但顯得更清澈一些。13.2%。其所使用的葡萄品種比例理論上應該比較接近2號,但香氣卻是跟1號比較像,只是蜜味較少而已。後續變化亦沒有1及2號多。口感比今天其他酒都要來得薄,但還是算得上強勁的,full-bodied,濃郁,餘韻很不錯,有乾果味。
1.5小時後感覺開始走下坡,口感變得有點水,算是今天持續力較差的酒款,但是以其價錢而言,這絕對是今天最超值的酒款。帶酒來的H君說這支酒非常適合搭餐,而且可搭配的餐點種類非常多,不論肉類或海鮮類料理都可以搭配。

以上四支酒是今天的第一組。

5.Chateau Rayas - 2000 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc
Grape varieties: Grenache Blanc 50% - Clairette 50%

這是今天的酒款當中第二難在台灣(甚至法國)找到的。Pale gold。
一開瓶就很香,酒友D說是鹹鴨蛋味道,這支酒香氣複雜多變,可能是今天得到最多「生活化」評語的酒款,包括花香(茉莉),芭樂、香瓜、百香果等果香,也有酒友說有Sauvignon Blanc味道,一點木桶風味,後續除了瓜果類之外也有水果軟糖之類香氣。
口感比起前面的酒都要來得清爽,比起來偏甜一些,雅致,med-bodied,餘韻很長,口感均衡,是非常好喝的一瓶酒。口感和香氣的持續力都很好,很吸引人,這一瓶同樣是今天我最喜歡的酒。13.5%。

RP:89pts
The 2000 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape white (equal parts Clairette and white Grenache) reveals big, juicy, buttery honeysuckle-like aromas and flavors, excellent concentration, a chewy palate, and a long finish. It should drink well for a decade or more, as this cuvee has an uncanny ability to pull itself together and surprise anyone trying to predict what it is going to do. Importers: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173 and Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

6.Chateau La Nerthe - 2001 Clos de Beauvenir
Composition de la cuvée : Roussanne 60% - Clairette 40%

金黃色澤。香氣很甜很濃郁,像水果糖,尤其是鳳梨等熱帶水果,酒友C說更像是小時候常喝的味全蘋果牛奶,我覺得有蘋果果味,摻上一點蜂蜜,另外還有酒友A君說像雪花冰,F君說是維他露P。
口感和香氣一樣飽滿圓潤,酒體重而濃,但餘韻很不明顯,口感略偏甜,酸度尚可,這瓶酒香氣的變化和豐富性很不錯,很有趣,但口感上整合得不是很好,或許還得多陳年吧。13.5%。

WS:93pts
WA:93pts
A luxury white cuvee, the 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Clos de Beauvenir (60% Roussanne and 40% Clairette) ages as well as any other white Chateauneuf. The finest effort to date, the 2001 is a gloriously perfumed, honeyed wine possessing full body, terrific acidity, tremendous delineation, and a layered texture. A treat to drink (although nearly impossible to find), this loaded Chateauneuf du Pape will be drinkable between now and 2010. Sadly, there are only 500 cases of this barrel-fermented offering. Importer: Clicquot Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575

7.Chateau Grillet -2001 Chateau Grillet Condrieu
Grape varieties: Viognier 100%

今天的酒當中最難找的一支酒,也是酒友A君和a君報名的主要理由。
Pale gold,比5號更淡,簡直已經接近透明。
一開瓶有很明顯的香濃奶味,甚至有點像CHEESE,精巧的花香、蜂蜜,香氣集中,後續還有杏桃乾、桃子等果香,極之吸引。
酸度良好,圓潤,有明顯油質感,口感比較清爽,不厚重,餘韻中等,花香頗濃。Full-bodied,後續香氣竟然越來越像德國酒,出現了像燙髮藥水等氣味,非常有趣。持續力相當好。13.5%,同樣是我最喜歡的酒之一。

Chateau Grillet is the only appellation in France provided by a single one winery. With 3,5ha/8.6acres, Château Grillet is also one the smallest!
Chateau Grillet is much like Condrieu, a full-body aromatic white wine made with Viognier. Because of the compact terroir, the wine is often outstanding, simply one of the best in France. Château Grillet is supposed to be an unique wine: both dry and sweet at the same time! However the price prevents wine lovers from tasting the experience. Chateau Grillet costs at least $100 a bottle.

結語:
這些酒目前幾乎都是一開瓶就已經可以喝了,香氣濃郁集中,香味和口感持續力相當強,都是共通的特色,香氣的變化性和豐富度更是跟一般喝Chardonnay時的感受大不相同,很活潑。其中2號酒也許是木桶使用得比較多,喝來像Bourgogne更多一些,比較感受不到品種特性的表現。7號香氣像德國Spatlese,則是出乎意料之外。幾乎每支酒都有相當不錯的酸度,只是因為酒體飽滿濃郁而不易察覺,且酸味毫無刺激感。在搭餐的可能性方面,我想這些酒會比一般的Chardonnay要好很多。另外,在陳年能力方面,應該也是無庸置疑。附帶一提,會後的Perrin & fils Cotes du Rhone Reserve 2001很好喝,餐點方面則完全要感謝酒友A的貢獻。

附記:
1.寫這篇時聖E大、聖e大好像都還沒出現,聖M大似乎也還不是認真會的台柱,聖又老又醜的笨女人大確定還沒加入認真會,不過我還是滿討厭這篇被列入認真會辦過的活動裡面的。
2.E、e、M、又等幾位大大不應該只是聖而已,應該是要封神了。

台長: Gwaihir
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