香檳:
1997 Vilmart Coeur de Cuvee
12%.pale gold,氣泡充沛細密。
甜麵糰,酵母等甜香。似有一絲灰塵味道。
口感甜、氣泡綿密細緻,中度酒體,酸度尚可,均衡感不錯,不過喝來有一點太柔軟,不似Vilmart典型的強壯風格,推測是先喝的白酒口感太強,壓過了香檳。
白:
2002 Paul Hobbs Russian River Valley Chardonnay
14.8%.light gold.
有柔和的柑橘類果香及奶油爆米花等桶香,些微花香,一開始的香氣在四瓶白酒中顯得最為清新細緻,幽雅。但時間長、溫度上升之後香氣也掉得最快。
口感油潤,酒精感重,但細緻度比Kongsgaard好一點,尾韻有一絲苦味。
2002 Kongsgaard Chardonnay
14.1%.light gold.
香氣濃郁,木桶系風味為主,奶油爆米花、有一點酒精感,還有石化製品味道(塑膠)。後續有礦石味。
口感相當均衡,令人意外,有酸度,個人覺得這瓶最像Burgandy白酒。
2002 Walter Hansel Family Vineyard Cuvee Alyce Chardonnay
淡金色,但比另三支略深。
桶味最重,一開始完全是烘烤木桶氣味,焦香,濃郁,奶油爆米花,後來有礦石、焦糖甚至塑膠等氣味,椰奶味道。
口感很油,厚重,所幸還保有一點酸度,尾韻微苦,濃稠,強勁,酒精感重。
我想這應該會是未來變化可能性最大的一款白酒。
2002 Sine Qua Non Proprietary White Whisperin’E(Roussanne, Viognier & Chardonnay )
14.9%.light gold.
仍然出現了奶油等桶味,但甜美的果味很多,較為清新,有白脫糖、葡萄柚、柑橘、桃子等果香,後來轉變為糖漬水果及白花香,有人說聞起來很像香水。非常神似南隆河白酒。
口感偏甜,且油潤,喝起來亦有隆河白酒的感覺,濃郁,力道頗強,酒體豐滿。
紅:
1999 Insignia
14%.紫紅色。
香氣與口感都較有貴氣,black currant、cassis、典型加州CAB的風格,甜美的果香與木桶味,香甜。
口感柔媚,順口,偏甜,單寧很柔細。實在是太新世界了。
和Silver Oak一樣,剛開瓶時最香。
1999 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
14.6%.紫紅色澤。
黑色漿果為主,香氣不太突出。
堅硬結實,中度至重度酒體,嚴肅,感覺較不適飲。
1999 Silver Oak Napa Valley
13.9%.色澤比前兩支都淡。
香草氣味,黑色水果的果味豐盈甜美,有一絲藥草味。香氣濃郁,奔放。
骨架結實,tannic,單寧較Paul Hobbs細緻,年輕,但均衡感很好,口感佳。
1984 Ridge York Creek Cabernet Sauvignon
12.9%.
甜美、黑色莓果、果醬香氣。
輕度至中度酒體,甜美,相當圓熟,但仍有柔細的單寧,尚未出現老酒韻味,感覺仍然很有活力,令人訝異。(苦主說前不久喝過一瓶,已經很成熟,這一瓶則可能是假酒:p)。
1999 Shifflett Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
14.4%.
黑醋栗、甜美、香草桶味,香氣奔放。
口感甜、肥美,典型新世界風格。
1996 Alois Lageder Romigberg C’OR Cabernet Sauvignon (Alto Adige)
13%.紫紅色,邊緣略轉褐。
黑色漿果、果香不錯,與桶味調和,香氣比加州酒雅致收斂些。
中等酒體,口感已頗圓熟,足酸,好喝。
甜:
1997 Chateau Guiraud Bordeaux Sauternes
橙黃色。柑橘果味、電線(塑膠),香氣收斂,雅致。
口感清爽,甜味不重,尾韻有些苦。
1999 Franz Kunstler Riesling Beerenauslese Goldkapsel Hochheimer Holle
7.5%.深金黃色。
柑橘、荔枝果味甚濃,甜美但並不過度。
均衡好喝,酒體輕靈,Sauternes完全不是對手。
2006.3.4.
Forchetta.
我點1800元的主廚特製套餐,前菜的蕃茄乾極為鮮甜(急速冷凍的作法),好吃極了。另一道用蝦子作的前菜搭配芝麻菜也極佳。湯是魚湯,魚肉肉質不錯,很有彈性,可惜不是我喜歡的味道。主菜我選了肋眼牛排,5分熟,雖然是澳洲牛,但肉質不錯,頗嫩,不錯吃,但筋過多,不方便食用。另一種主菜是春雞,外皮焦酥,肉本身則仍然多汁柔嫩,比較成功。甜點尚可。
餐廳的服務品質比起過去差,雖然服務生還是很有熱忱,態度也好,但效率不佳,常常要求某樣東西等很久才來,也許是因為現在餐廳生意太好了吧。開酒倒酒的技術也頗生疏,開香檳時失敗,香檳噴掉很多,而且還噴到客人的頭上,雖然開瓶費有所優惠,但付得還是有點不甘。對於服務的另一個小抱怨是,有一位外籍服務生(歐洲人?),對於在台灣還得用外文跟服務生溝通這一點覺得頗為沮喪。
安和路一段127巷4號,(02) 2707-7776
相關酒評:
Paul Hobbs Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2002
WS:95 HighlyRecommended
A remarkably complex, rich and elegant wine, with tiers of creamy fig, green pear, nectarine and honeysuckle, punctuated by a scent of spearmint. Finishes with a long aftertaste. Drink now through 2007. 104 cases made. (JL)Spectator:#17 of 2004 top 100
RP:89-91
More structure, acidity, and delineation are present in the 2002 Chardonnay Russian River. While it does not appear to possess as intense fruit as the 2001, it is still evolving. There is no doubting the impressive honeysuckle, peach-like notes.
Walter Hansel Family Vineyard Cuvee Alyce Chardonnay 2002
Parker:96
’...a big, orange marmalade, buttered popcorn, hazelnut, guava, and papaya-scented bouquet. This rich, full-bodied, concentrated, stunning Chardonnay is one of the sexiest, most alluring efforts...’
Sine Qua Non Proprietary White Whisperin’ E (Roussanne, Viognier & Chardonnay ) 2002
Parker:95
The 2002 Proprietary White called Whisperin’ E is a concoction of 50% Roussanne, 31% Viognier, and 19% Chardonnay, most from the Alban Vineyard with a tiny dollop of Stolpman fruit. There are 524 cases of this light gold-colored 2002. A superb perfume of smoky hazelnuts intermixed with exotic lychee, honeysuckle, peach, and beeswax notes is followed by a full-bodied wine with a multilayered texture that pulls back in the finish to reveal surprising uplift, acidity, and lightness ... an amazing feat given a wine of this power, dimension, and intensity. It should drink well for another 5-7 years. (Release date 11/04) Tel. (805) 640-0997
Tanzer:94
’Roasted, oaky aromas of peaty Islay scotch and smoke, with a strong mineral component. Fascinating combination of a firm pear skin edge and lively acids and superripe flavors of pineapple, peach nectar and honeysuckle. ’
Kongsgaard Chardonnay 2002
Parker:
1.92-96
The 2002 Chardonnay appears to be slightly behind the 2001, but it is one year younger. Already complex, with tremendous opulence, it is made in an exuberant, in-your-face California style with abundant glycerin, flavor intensity, and alcohol. This extravagantly rich effort should be consumed during its first 5-6 years of life. The mystical John Kongsgaard is one heck of a winemaker. These are low tech, artisinal offerings that eschew commercial yeasts, bacterial strains, and enzymes. Of course, they are bottled naturally, with no fining or filtration. What one gets is the essence of the varietal, vintage, and vineyard. (Not yet released) As readers know, these wines are sold via a mailing list. Fax (707) 963-4512
2.95
’...reveals more evolution in its orange liqueur, lemon oil, honeyed grapefruit, roasted hazelnut, and leesy personality. With terrific delineation, intensity, and full body, noble purity, and an amazing texture...’
Tanzer:94
’Wild, gamey aromas of dried fruits, honey, smoke, truffle and nuts. With terrific fat and depth. The acids have been integrated into the wine. With aeration, showed hints of exotic fruits as well as firmer notes of lemon and grapefruit.’
Silver Oak Napa Valley 1999
RP:
1.92-94(Dec-00)
A blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 6% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot, the terrific 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa boasts a dense ruby/purple color, and a concentrated, opulent personality with flashy notes of black currant, kirsch, spice box, cedar, and smoke. Full-bodied, low in acidity, and juicy, this lush, in-your-face Cabernet Sauvignon should be delicious when released and age nicely for 12 or so years. (Not yet released) Tel. (800) 273-8809; fax (707) 944-2817
2.87 (Aug-02)
The opaque ruby-colored 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa is a blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 6% Merlot, and 3% Petit Verdot. The wine reveals a sweet attack of fruitcake, spice box, dried herbs, and black fruits. It is bordeaux-like, with hard, tough tannin, an angular personality, and an astringent finish. This is a perplexing offering. There is an impressive beginning, but the finish is narrow and pinched, hence the question mark. My instincts suggest it will age for 12-15 years, but will always be dry and austere, without the charm and sweetness of the finest vintages. Tel. (800) 273-8809; Fax (707) 944-2817
WS:91(15-Nov-03)
Dill, lavender and mocha scents are followed by a trace of coconut and layers of spicy currant, herb, sage and plum flavors. Very rich and concentrated. Impeccably balanced, with a long, persistent aftertaste that keeps echoing fruit and oak. Some will find the oak excessive, others just the Silver Oak signature. Drink now through 2012. 20,091 cases made. (JL)
Insignia 1999
RP:
1.91(Aug-02)
There are 15,000 cases of the 1999 Insignia, a blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot, 1% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Malbec. The core of this offering tends to come from Rutherford-grown fruit. The saturated dense purple-colored 1999 offers a tight but promising nose of incense, spice box, black fruits, and vanilla. This elegant, stylish, and medium to full-bodied offering is made in a more French-like, finesse style than such blockbusters as 1997, 1996, 1995, and 1994. Give it 3-4 years of cellaring and consume it over the following 15-18. Tel. (707) 963-2745; Fax (707) 963-4831
2.93-96(Dec-00)
Joseph Phelps’ flagship wine is their fabulous Insignia, a wine with a tremendous track record back to the debut vintage of 1974. It is produced in significant quantities (18,000-20,000 cases) for a wine of such quality. A great Insignia in the making is the 1999. An impressive black/purple color is followed by aromas and flavors of melted licorice and creme de cassis, immense body, a voluptuous texture, and an opulent, multilayered palate. This is a fabulously concentrated, low acid yet super-endowed wine. It is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, and 1% each of Petit-Verdot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc. After its release in 2002, it should age effortlessly for 2-3 decades. Tel. (707) 963-2745; Fax (707) 963-4831
WS:94 Cellar Selection(31-Jul-02)
Dark, rich and intensely concentrated, with a firm, tightly wound core of currant, black cherry, mineral, anise, sage and mocha-laced oak. Well-focused, with firm acidity and firm yet supple tannins. A young blockbuster in need of cellaring. Best from 2004 through 2016.15,000 cases made. (JL)
Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 1999
WS:93 (30-Jun-02)
A tremendous wine, dark, polished and deeply concentrated, with layers of plush plum, blackberry and black cherry, showing touches of herb and black olive. Finishes with a broad, rich, supple texture and wonderful length. Best from 2004 through 2012. 1,857 cases made. (JL)
RP:91(Aug-02)
The superb 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa (1,857 cases) is more California-styled with lavish toasty new oak intermixed with jammy black cherries, black currants, licorice, and tobacco notes. It is a dense, opulent, cassis-flavored effort with loads of fruit and glycerin. This seductive Cabernet will drink well for 10-15 years. Tel. (707) 824-9879; Fax (707) 824-5843
Chateau Guiraud Bordeaux Sauternes 1997
RP:
1.92 (No tasting note given) (Apr-00)
2.88-90 (Apr-99)
The medium gold-colored 1997 Guiraud exhibits a fat, foursquare personality with copious quantities of orange marmalade, melted butter, and lychee nut notes. Buttered white corn flavors make an appearance in this corpulent, full-bodied, unctuously-textured wine. It is a mouth-filling, well-endowed, hefty style of Sauternes. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2025.
WS:93(31-Jan-00)
An elegant and racy Guiraud, with pretty aromas of pineapple, melon and spice. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with an intense, spicy botrytis finish. Needs time. Best from 2002 through 2006. (JS)
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