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【德國】一些應該要認識的德國酒詞彙

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在台灣對於德國葡萄酒的常用字彙其實蠻有限的,大約集中在QbA、Qmp、Kabinett、Spätlese、Auslese、Beerenauslese (BA)、Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA)、Eiswein這類和葡萄成熟度有關的分級詞彙上,此外就是產區名稱,不過產區名稱也都以Mosel-Saar-Ruwer (2007年以後可以只標Mosel)為多,頂多在加上Rheinhessen 、Rheingau、Pfalz、Nahe (依個人覺得在台灣的能見度),當然還有其他產區有有少量進口,有關產區的資訊,以後有機會再來聊。

本篇的主題在於摘要一些個人覺得應該要認識的德國酒詞彙,而且我相信依照目前德國酒的發展趨勢,和這些詞彙有有關的酒款也會逐漸出現在台灣市場,本篇主要借用美國酒商MOSEL WINE MERCHANT所編輯的詞彙表摘錄,我介紹的順序不依據英文字母,而是把個人覺得相關的放在一起,另外加上一些自己的理解或詮釋。

Alte RebenOld vines. An unregulated term, usually meaning the vines are between 25 and 100 years old. On the Mosel these are often ungrafted. 就是老藤啦!不過,這個也不是一個有被明確規範的術語,因此25歲的年輕人到100歲的人瑞,都是老藤。在Mosel地區通常是沒有接枝的。

trocken:Dry. Cannot be more than 9 grams of residual sugar per liter. 干,就是不甜,依據規範每公升的糖不能超過九公克。

halbtrocken:“Half-dry.” Cannot be more than 18 grams of residual sugar per liter. Many growers dislike the term and have either replaced it with “feinherb” (though its definition is technically different) or done away with it altogether. Unsurprisingly, this switch has led to misunderstandings, because German wines without a designation are thought to be sweet. 這個是最傳統的規範,「一半干」或「一半不甜」,其實意思就是「有點甜又不會太甜」,就像大家去五十嵐會點的「半糖」或「少糖」,依據規範每公升的糖不能超過十八公克,不過這個詞顯然是很德國理哲式的邏輯思維,不但消費者不容易懂,連很多種植者都不採用,而改以下面會介紹的「feinherb」代替,當然個新詞彙也造成一些混淆,讓「德國酒」與「甜」這個兩個概念有些變化(這個部份在介紹「Grosses Gewächs」再補充說明)。

feinherbA relatively new tasting term on the label that many domaines use in place of halbtrocken. The legal difference is that feinherb has no residual sugar limit, meaning that the wines can extend well beyond the 18-gram limit of the halbtrocken category, and can sometimes contain over 30 grams per liter of residual sugar. 這個詞彙,是個人覺得未來最需要認識的,就算不想在德國酒的知識層面探索,只想用感官體驗德國酒的朋友,因為標有「feinherb」的酒款越來越多,很多酒莊都愛用這詞彙,也越來越愛釀這種甜度水準的酒款,甚至我手上的Weinguide也將「feinherb」如同Kabinett、Spätlese、Auslese等列一個單獨評價排名的分類。「feinherb」是一個沒有嚴格定義的詞彙,沒有「殘糖」的規定,因此從十八克到三十克都有可能,但是通常會比Kabinett不甜一些,就像是去買奶茶時候,你很可能會點「半糖」或「少糖」,但是甜度的標準隨不同的店家而定,但是大家都很喜歡點「半糖」或「少糖」,或許未來德國白酒也是;附帶一題,「feinherb」和葡萄成熟度沒有絕對的關係,所以可以看到「feinherb」的QbA、Kabinett、Spätlese、Auslese。

Goldkapsel (GK):An unofficial means for producers to signify particularly special (normally riper and rarer) wines. Growers literally top the bottle with a gold (or, even a "long" gold) capsule. Used mainly for Auslesen, though some Spätlesen are “Gold Kap.” 這個應該是比較常見的,意思就是比較高檔、比較特殊(當然也比較貴),有著「金色的脖子(金色的封籤)」,通常都是Auslese,也有一些是Spätlese。

 

Grosslage:A legally defined region consisting of a number of different villages and single vineyards (Einzellagen). Created by the controversial 1971 Law, they inherently discredit the single-vineyard culture by allowing lesser sites to be linked to place names of greater stature and quality, e.g., Piesporter Goldtröpfchen (Einzellage) and Piesporter Michelsberg (Grosslage). 「Grosslage」這個詞彙是在1971年規範的,這類有關的酒款其實在台灣蠻多,但是比較少提到這個詞彙,這是一個很籠統的產區規範,在台灣最常見到的產區是Piesporter Michelsberg(例如Rudolf Muller 和 Johannes Egberts 這兩個在台灣賣得很好的平價品牌),在這個廣泛的產區定義下,可能包括數個村莊或葡萄園,基本上是和「單一葡萄園」的定義完全不同,讓一些小葡萄園或產區都能歸類到一個比較知名的產區類別下。

Einzellage:An individual single vineyard, e.g., the Juffer in the village of Brauneberg, hence Brauneberger Juffer. The Mosel has a great tradition of single vineyards, with nearly 10,000 different sites named on the labels stretching back more than a hundred years, but the number of single-vineyard designations was greatly reduced after the 1971 German Wine Law to less than 500. Many of the top sites, similar to Burgundian climats, were grouped together into official single vineyards, often including tracts of less privileged vines on flat ground. In most cases hiding behind the best-sounding name are many former sites, which were no longer allowed on the label. In recent years, there has been a counter-movement against this enduring law. Dedicated growers have begun (illegally and in rejection of bureaucratic protocol) either using these old place-names again or creating new fanciful ones in order to highlight the original best sites. 「Einzellage」這個詞彙就是貨真價實的「single vineyard」單一葡萄園,由於Mosel河地區特色與傳統,曾經有多達一萬個不同的葡萄園,所以才在1971年的規範下,把可以在酒標上標示葡萄園的只有五百個,不但一些有知名度的葡萄園有所整合,因此即使「Einzellage」下也有一些種植在平地的葡萄田,至於沒有被列入「Einzellage」的葡萄園都可改以「Grosslage」的方式聚合(希望我的理解沒錯!),例如金波園Piesporter Goldtröpfchen是Einzellage,而平價酒常見的米雪爾堡Piesporter Michelsberg就是Grosslage。

 

Grosses Gewächs (GG):A designation—meaning “great growth,” a nod to the French Grand Cru— used by the VDP, and recently also the Bernkasteler Ring, to highlight the top dry wines from their members’ best sites. GGs remain a controversial, loaded topic: “top” and “best” are, of course, relative terms; consumers unfamiliar with the term might not know the wines are dry; and the insistence that the wines come in at under 9 grams of residual sugar perhaps sometimes does a disservice to wines that would benefit from more. Still, it is undoubtedly true that some of the finest dry wines in Germany now carry the GG stamp, and time will tell whether it proves an effective labeling strategy or not.有別於定義不清的「Grosslage」與過於寬鬆的「Einzellage」,VDP酒莊協會組織在1992年開始制定一個新的葡萄園標準,「Grosses Gewächs」表示頂級園,類似法國的Grand Cru,但是這個依然存有爭議,但是必須強調的是,標有「Grosses Gewächs」的酒款一定是干白酒或干紅酒,這個雖然規範葡萄園,但是同時也限定葡萄酒的糖份不得超過九公克,這個規範仍在發展中,依然需要一些時間來看看是否成功,不過這個的確產生新的爭議,通常標示為「GG」或「1+五顆葡萄」圖案,有關爭議可以參考林裕森的〈干與不干,Riesling最難解的課題〉,另外我也看到一些更細緻對於Mosel地區的葡萄園進行三級分類的觀點(這個蠻有趣的,以後再介紹),Rheingau產區使用這個「Erstes Gewächs」詞彙。

Erste Lage:First Growth. A voluntary, sometimes controversial, VDP-only classification system intended to signify vineyards of high quality. Wines bottled as such are identifiable by the “Erste Lage” logo (a numeral “1” with a cluster of grapes) usually written on the label or embossed on a heavy bottle. On the Mosel it can be used for both Qualitäts- and Prädikatswein. The VDP’s effort to highlight the top sites is neither an official nor a comprehensive attempt at vineyard classification, because it pertains only to vineyards belonging to growers in the VDP. As with the term Grosses Gewächs (also VDP), Erste Lage remains a disputed work in progress. ( designation used by VDP to denote selected sites suitable for Erstes Gewächs and Grosses Gewächs wines. Also used by VDP in Mosel in conjunction with a Prädikat to design top-level wines from these selected sites. Erste Lage QbA is used for the dry wines.)這個是VDP對於具有Erstes Gewächs、Grosses Gewächs認證的葡萄園以及Mosel地區的頂級葡萄園的認證。(我個人把Erstes Gewächs、Grosses Gewächs、Erste Lage都視為干白酒頂級園的認證,坦白說,我覺得德國人還蠻喜歡把簡單的東西過度複雜化)。

 

Spätburgunder:Pinot Noir. A noble red grape variety that has a long tradition on the Mosel. Because of the late-19th century demand for Riesling, it quickly disappeared and was dealt a further blow when banned by the Nazis. Since 1987, the varietal has experienced a small renaissance and counts today for 4% of overall wine production. 「Spätburgunder」就是「Pinot Noir」黑皮諾,按照上面資訊,在19世紀中葉以前,連Mosel地區都種植大量的黑皮諾(甚至我看到的資訊,20世紀中葉以前Mosel地區生產的白葡萄酒也都是以不甜的為主,直到20世紀中葉之後才轉為以甜的為主,不過,這是另外的故事,以後有機會再說),目前德國種植黑皮諾的產區是Baden、Ahr、Pfalz、Rheingau、Franken為主,其他各個產區也都有生產,連Mosel都有(4%),這幾年伴隨著全球暖化(可以參考林裕森〈全球暖化的新滋味〉),德國越來越適合種植黑皮諾,因此黑皮諾種植的面積一直擴大,在台灣市場尚未能掀起風潮,主要的原因還是出在名稱上,因為大家看不懂德國的「Spätburgunder」,雖然酒莊已經有價格高達120-140美金的頂級酒款,台灣目前包括Baden區的王者Bernhard Huber、Ahr區的王者Meyer-Näkel、Franken區的王者Horst Sauer都有進口,但是目前德國的黑皮諾在台灣的市場能見度不高,但長期而言,潛力可觀。

台長: 史蒂芬
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有修正部分內容,因為Erstes Gewächs、Grosses Gewächs、Erste Lage 這三個名詞,我個人把Erstes Gewächs、Grosses Gewächs、Erste Lage都視為干白酒頂級園的認證,坦白說,我覺得德國人還蠻喜歡把簡單的東西過度複雜化。
2011-03-30 10:31:43
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2016-08-11 15:50:50
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