我今年24歲
I am 24
我對阿拉斯加的憧憬已持續了12年
and I have been wanting to go to Alaska for 12 years
那年我22歲
I was 22 that time
終於,我踏上了阿拉斯加的土地
that time I finally step on the land of Alaska
阿拉斯加是第49個被納入美國的州
Alaska is the 49th state of United States
面積也是全美最大的
and it is also the biggest of America
(其實這塊夢土原是屬於俄國, 但在1867年被拍賣給美國)
(this dream land was belonged to Russia, but they sold it to USA in 1867)
她被稱為美國的最後一片淨土
it's called the last frontier of United States
因為地處高緯度天寒地凍擁有大片森林面積尚未開發
because of the high latitude and freezing weather, there are lots of forest undiscoverd in AK
阿拉斯加也成為不少人心中的最佳淘金夢想地
and it is also a best place for people who has gold rush dream
但我對阿拉斯加的夢
but my dream of Alaska
並不是金礦, 也不是大片的自然景觀
is not about gold or natural scenerary
我對阿拉斯加的喜愛
the reason why I like it
是因為世間最美的一種科學現象---極光
is because of the most beautiful science phenomena---Aurora Borealis/ Northern light
極光是由太陽風與地球磁場中帶電粒子碰撞而成
Aurora is formed by collision of charged particles of the solar wind with the Earth's magnetic field
雖然經科學解釋之後少了那種神祕感
it is not that mysterious after u explain it with science
但由於極光出現的時間總是很突然
but still, it happens all of a sudden
(雖然有預報系統)
(even though there is prediction system)
所以即使停留在阿拉斯加長達一週,也未必見得到她的美貌
Thus, you never know when will u see that even you spend whole weeks in Alaska
2011年的九月
September, 2011
我隻身前往據說地球上最佳觀賞極光的城鎮--費爾班克斯(Fairbanks)
I went to a town that people say it's a best place to view northern light---Fairbanks
(此一說來自於我十年前看過的一本書)
(I heard from a book I read 10 years ago)
據統計, 該城鎮一年中約有243天可見極光
According to the statistic, u could see northern light for about 243 days in a year
於是那年夏天,我毫不猶豫的訂了飛往費爾班克斯的機票
that's the reason why I booked the ticket to Fairbanks without doubt
極光約在每年九月下旬至隔年三月為最佳觀賞時間
the best time to watch aurora borealis is around late Sep. to Mar.
(因夜晚較長)
(because the night time is longer)
我抱著滿心期待, 降落在旅客不多的機場
I had great expectation, I landed in the airport with not much tourists
那是我第一次獨自在國外旅行
it was my first time travel alone in other country
心中其實也充滿了害怕
so I was scared, too.
擔心氣溫過低, 天候不佳, 準備不足....等
worry about the low temperature, no heavy clothes, and lack of preparation...etc.
加上我無法駕駛任何交通工具, 沒辦法深入光害更少的地方
besides, I cannot drive/ride any vehicle by myself, so I can't go to deeper town with less light
抵達下榻旅店前,
on the way to the hotel
計程車司機跟我說前兩天他有看到極光
the taxi driver told me he saw northern light couple nights ago
我心中的興奮與期望又提高了一些
so it made me have higher expectation
我總共要待三個晚上, 應該至少可以看到一次吧
and I will stay for 3 nights, I was assume I could at least see it once
費爾班克斯的旅店都非常貼心
the hotels in Fairbanks are very thoughtful
他們有提供"極光警報",只要飯店櫃檯看到有極光,
they have "aurora alert". Once the front desk sees it
就會打電話到你的房間通知你喔!
they will call your room to inform you
當地的報紙也都有極光機率預報
and the local newspaper has prediction of the northern light
因此晚上都可以安心就寢不用守在外面傻傻等極光
so you can go to bed without worrying you will miss the show!
第一晚,期望落空
I didn't see it the first night...
天空雲層有點厚, 所以我與極光的相會機率又少了一點
it was too cloudy, so I lost some chances of seeing the light
隔天早上, 沒有被前晚的失望打敗
but I was not crash down the next day
我到了阿拉斯加大學裡的"北方博物館"參觀
I went to the "Museum of the North" in University of Alaska
進一步了解接近極圈的歷史與自然
to get to know more historical and natural about the arctic
博物館中還有一個介紹極光的特區
and there is one special zone for aurora borealis
讓你對極光的形成與原理更加了解
so you will know better about how does it form and the reason of that
也有許多極光的照片可供觀賞
and you can see lots of picture as well
(因為某些顏色的極光非常罕見, 所以看照片快多了!)
(because some special color of northern light is very rare, it's faster to see the picture of it)
因為九月下旬日夜時間大概還有一半一半
the daytime and night time is about 50/50 in late Sep.
所以不能只等待晚上的極光, 白天也是要做點事
so you can't just wait for the norther light whole day, gotta find something to do in the morning
於是我到了當地非常知名的餐廳
Hence, I went to a famous local restaurant
The Pump House
這間餐廳成立於1933年
this restaurant was founded in 1933
旁邊就是珍納河 ( Chena River)
and it's next to Chena River
天氣好的時候可以選擇在室外(河岸)用餐
you can choose to dine outside, which is actually a lakeview area
別有一番優美風味
it's pretty romantic to me
阿拉斯加知名的是海鮮(雖然費爾班克斯並不靠海)
Seafood is famous in Alaska (tho Fairbanks is not a seashore town)
這間餐廳有名的也是各式海鮮
so seafood is well-known in this restaurant
既然來到高緯度地區
since you are in a high latitude area
必點帝王蟹腳或生蠔
do not miss King Crab or lobster
由於我只有一個人用餐, 只點了一隻帝王蟹腳 (8 oz.)
I was alone to dinner, so I only ordered one king crab leg
還有蟹餅+甜點飲料, 這樣也將近1200台幣了....
crab cake+desert and drink.....it's about 40 USD
但是海鮮非常好吃
but the food was awesome
原味就已經很夠味了呢
even without sauce
用完晚餐又是既期待又怕受傷害的等待我心中的極光女神
after that, it's my worried but hoping time for Godess Aurora
沒想到這晚希望還是落空了
and I didn't see it that night....
因為仍然是陰雨天氣
cuz the weather was still not good for northern light
隔天又持續一個人的冒險
Keep on my advantage alone the next morning
我前往一個叫做North Pole (北極)的小鎮探訪聖誕老人之家
I went to Santa Claus House in a town named "North Pole"
但因時序還早,聖誕老人還在放假
but it was still early, Santa was still on vacation
只有店內的擺設和無數紀念品可以逛
there are tons of souvenirs in the shop
還好外面有人工養的馴鹿(reindeer)撫慰我無法見到聖誕老人的心情
it is a good thing there are human breed reindeer to smooth my upset of not seeing Santa
費爾班克斯的大眾運輸雖然沒有台北方便
even though public transportation is not as convenient as Taipei
但是主要的景點只要不是太遠, 公車都可以到, 而且車資也很便宜喔
the bus still can get to most of the sightseeing spots, and the fare is reasonable
回到旅館撥了電話要預約非常想成行的極圈之旅
I was trying to make a reservation of the Arctic Circle tour when I got back to the hotel
(也就是團體進入北緯66.5度,名符其實的"極圈")
(which actuall takes you to 66.5 N, the real "Arctic Circle")
沒想到未達人數無法成行...我勇敢的夢幻冒險行程硬生生被迫要更改
but the bad news is that there is no enough people to make it work on that trip
so I was forced to change my plan on my dream adventure tour...
而當晚,
我仍然沒有見到極光
and I still didn't see the northern light that night :'(
睡一覺醒來,即使心情再差也得為自己找點事情做
I woke up next morning, still have to find sth to do even though I was really upset
於是我前往城中的冰雕博物館參觀
so I went to the Ice Museum downtown
雖然與想像中還是有些落差
it's not as cool as I imagined
但畢竟冰雕不是台灣常見的藝術
but the ice sculptures are pretty rare in Taiwan
心裡還是讚嘆不已
it still amazed me
城中其實還蠻好逛的,不知不覺,已是我在費爾班克斯的最後一個夜晚
it's actually not too bad downtown
and I just realized that was my last night in Fairbanks
然而, 我還是沒有受到極光女神的眷顧
Still, the goddess of northern light was not trying to show up to me
隔天一早,我只好帶著失落的心情離開這個城鎮
I gotta leave the town with sad mood next day
但我搭上了冬季限定的"極光列車"
but I have to cheer up, I was on the Aurora Winter Train
這是種觀光列車
it's a sightseeing train
只有冬季週末才行駛
and it only drives on weekends in Winter
從費爾班克斯開往安克拉治
from Fairbanks to Anchorage
(聽說自己開車走高速公路只用五小時)
(I think it only takes about 5 hrs if you drive on the highway)
但由於是觀光列車 (同時為貨車的一種)
but since it's a touring train (also cargo train)
可以隨時停靠下車參觀
it can stop wherever we want and whenever we desire
所以這列車行駛時間總共是12小時
so it takes 12 hours for the whole trip
車上有專業講解人員還有許多標本(鹿角,狐狸毛皮等)
there are professional tourguide (staffs of the train) and lots of specimens
(antlers, animal furs...etc.)
以及可以進入大開列車門往外看的貨艙
and the luggage cart that you can walk in with side door open
火車客艙也十分舒適
and it's comfortable in guest's cart as well
沿路都走在山谷中,風景美不勝收
the rail is mostly in the mountain, and the scene was very pretty
還看到鮭魚回巢生殖池
you can see a specail protected ponds for salmons
遠處的古老冰河
and ancient glacier
途經知名的丹納利國家公園和許多小鎮
and passed the famous Daneli Park and lots of tiny towns along the road
雖然車程長達12小時
even though it takes 12 hours for the trip
但全程收穫豐富充實喔 :)
it's actually very nice to see so many places, and gain some knowledge
這是我最接近夢想的一次旅程
It was the journey that soooo close to my dream
雖然與極光擦肩而過
I maybe missed the northern light that time
但我想
but I think
這也給了我再次到訪的理由
it also gives me a reason to visit again....
下一次
next time
我一定要看到我等了十多年的那道絢麗極光
I will have to stay till I finally see the astonishing aurora borealis
which I've been waiting for over ten years....
謝謝大家看完
thanks for your patience :)
歡迎來我專頁
and please cheak out my own page
xoxo
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