DRC 1994品嚐報告
2000/6/24(六)誠品辦了一個極高檔的餐會，主角酒款是全套六種的DRC 1994年份頂級紅酒，包括Romanee-Conti、La Tache、Romanee St.-Vivant、Richebourg、Echezeaux與Grands Echezeaux，並穿插了二款Leroy的頂級酒做比對；我想能夠在一頓飯就把這幾支酒同時喝遍，恐怕全世界也沒有幾次機會，各位網友大概沒有人不知道DRC或Leroy，但我相信品嚐過的人應該不多(尤其是Romanee-Conti)，更甭提一起來做水平品嚐了。因此小弟我特別草撰拙文一篇，以饗各位網友。
首先來提一提串場佐餐的白酒，第一支是Leroy 1985 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru白酒，雖然酒質也還平衡，但香氣口感並不特別突出，有點單調，以頂頂大名的Leroy而言似乎未達應有的水準，因此又開了一支Lucien Crochet的1995 Sancerre ‘Vendange Du 27 Octobre’，這支Loire的白酒就表現得很好，充滿核果與奶油的香氣，我個人覺得比前一支Leroy要豐富得多。
接下來就進入重頭戲，陸續端上了DRC 1994年份的Echezeaux、Grands Echezeaux、Romanee St.-Vivant、Richebourg、La Tache、Romanee-Conti等六支頂級酒，並加入了Leroy 1994 Romanee St.-Vivant與Leroy 1964 Echezeaux一起做比較品嚐；結果這八支酒最令我驚豔的不是Romanee-Cont，而是Leroy 1964 Echezeaux，此酒雖已達36歲高齡，但完全沒有衰老的感覺，正值成熟的巔峰狀態，充滿迷人的花香、黑漿果香味，以及極複雜好聞的土壤與松露香，非常高雅而甜美，入口則是柔順甜美又好喝，有多種層次的複雜水果味，回味也十分悠長。這是我認為當晚最好的一支酒。
至於DRC 1994 Grands Echezeaux、Romanee St.-Vivant與Leroy 1994 Romanee St.-Vivant也是相當精采，由於我以前曾品嚐過Leroy 1991 Romanee St.-Vivant，做得是渾厚有力，品質絕倫，故原本對Leroy 1994 Romanee St.-Vivant期望頗高，喝過後口感也確實紮實好喝，香氣也極其複雜迷人，但單寧還是太重，整體似乎比預期沉悶了些，或許是尚未成熟，還需要時間來發展；此酒Wine Spectator給予93高分，也確實有此品質。事實上Leroy的Romanee St.-Vivant 在價格上是超級的貴，一般都超過DRC Romanee St.-Vivant的三倍以上，在美國1994年份的Leroy Romanee St.-Vivant一瓶叫價500美元，實在有夠昂貴，這也是為什麼我對它期望較高的緣故。至於DRC 1994 Romanee St.-Vivant，Wine Spectator只給了它80分，但我覺得它香氣圓潤豐富，先是極好的肉味，接著變化為黑梅子的甜美果味，非常複雜，入口果味也相當多，只是太過年輕，口感有一些酸澀，但不致太嚴重，老實說還真是支不錯的酒，不知為何得此慘不忍睹的低分。而DRC 1994 Grands Echezeaux 在Wine Spectator得到89分，我個人也覺得分數應更高些；此酒做得也是極好，帶有梅子漿果類神秘而迷人的香味，口感渾厚紮實，不過也是太過年輕，難掩酒質青澀、單寧咬口之感，殊為可惜。
最讓我不知所謂的反而是DRC的Richebourg、La Tache與號稱舉世第一紅酒的Romanee-Conti，三支酒聞起來都非常封閉，沒什麼特別之處，甚至連莓果香味都不多，喝了幾口也都是滿嘴酸澀，且不一會兒上顎與腮幫子都因厚重的單寧而麻木不仁，簡直就是遜斃了! Wine Spectator對於DRC 1994 La Tache與Romanee-Conti 分別給85與84分，真的是一點也不奇怪! 也許這些超級名酒在十年後會有截然不同的轉變吧?
最後的一支貴腐甜酒倒是值得一提: Chateau Gilette 1976。此酒係在水泥製的酒槽(而非木桶)中儲養20年以上才裝瓶上市，產量原本就極少，且不是每年都有生產，價格自然不便宜，而就稀罕度而言，那可是比Chateau d’Yquem還珍貴。此酒雖為1976年份，其實也才裝瓶上市不久，喝起來香氣與口感均十分年輕，品質做得相當不錯，不過複雜度尚需時間來發展。
這一趟喝下來我倒是有一些感想，首先就是很佩服誠品吳老闆的魄力與膽識，我想能辦這種餐會的全世界也沒幾個人了；再來就是深刻體會到: 昂貴的酒一定要有耐心等它成熟再享用。DRC的Romanee-Conti與La Tache若說是全世界第一與第二的紅酒，其實也並不為過，但不僅Wine Spectator分別給85與84低分，我喝過後也覺得一點也不特別；雖說1994是Burgundy較差的年份，但以DRC舉世皆知的盛名，實在不該做出這種水準的酒；我之前喝過的1978 La Tache，品質之好就足足讓我餘韻繞齒，三日不絕。我想比較合理的解釋就是還沒成熟吧! 對酒商或Parker、Wine Spectator而言，他們需要有品嚐新酒而知其未來的能力，但對我們消費者而言，是不必每次都要去把舌頭搞得麻木不仁的，我們只需要耐心等酒成熟後再去享用而已；如果酒未發展完成就把它給喝了，尤其是那些超昂貴的酒，那不但有暴殄天物的罪過，而且也是跟自己的舌頭與荷包過不去。
以下是一些酒款的WS酒評，做為參考:
1994 Echezeaux, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti
$90.00, score:88 points, 9/30/97
Succulent, juicy, elegant and satisfying. The lightest of the six DRC reds, but at least it's balanced and not astringent. Full-bodied and dark-colored, with lovely mix of mocha, rose petal, licoric and black cherry flavors, accented by toasted notes on the fine finish. Ripe, sweet tannins are impressive for this vintage. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.Drink now through 2000. (1500 cases produced)
1994 Grands Echezeaux, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti
$115.00, 89 points, 9/30/97
Complex, its violet, licorice, dried herbs and wild raspberry character mingling with mocha, spice and oak accents. Like all '94 DRC reds, it seems at first sip a touch unripe, with green tannins on the lingering finish. But it grows fatter and more harmonious in the glass, so should improve with age. Try after 2000, to 2005. Tasted twice with consistent notes. (1000 cases produced)
1994 La Tache, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti
$245.00, 85 points, 9/30/97
A muscular, tough young wine that's difficult to evaluate now. It smells delicious with violet, rose petal, toasted bread, mocha and spice notes, but a wall of green, astringent and dry tannins makes for a rough and hard-as-nails finish that seems, frankly, unbalanced. This finish is crisp, ungenerous and somewhat short. Perhaps better after 2005. Three bottles tasted. (1600 cases produced)
1994 Richebourg, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti
$190.00, 90points, 9/30/97
Pure, clean and very intense, with toasted bread, grilled meat, blackberry and black cherry flavors. Full-bodied, it needs time to settle down, but has impressive structure, well-integrated tannins and a long, albeit slightly green, finish. It's the most complete and balanced of DRC's `94 reds. Try around 2005. Tasted two bottles, with similar notes. (1000 cases produced)
1994 Romanee St.-Vivant, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti
$135.00, 80 points,9/30/97
Tasted two bottles, the second of which was better, but both offered a backward, angular, medium-bodied wine that's very closed and tough. Interesting mocha, spice, licorice, red- and blackberry aromas follow through on the palate, but you wish the finish was more supple and balanced, and not dominated by green, dry and astringent tannins that are surprisingly rustic for such a glamorous wine. Given its track record, perhaps it will smooth out with several year of cellaring, but unlike some top '94 grands crus, it lacks harmony at this stage. Perhaps better after 2005. (1600 cases produced)
1994 Romanee-Conti, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti
$765.00, 84 points, 9/30/97
Surprisingly unimpressive and ungenerous when tasted blind against other '94 red Burgundies from top producers. It's rather crisp, accented by mocha, freshly ground coffee beans and other oak-supplied flavors, tasting of barely ripe cherry and raspberry flavors. Medium-bodied. Chewy finish. Try after 1998. 700 six-bottle cases made.
1994 Romanee St.-Vivant, Domaine Leroy
$475.00, 93 points, 9/30/97
Refined winemaking. Lovely, sweet and ripe, very harmonious and balanced, almost delicate in its structure although it has plenty of firm tannins to keep it together. Offers lovely floral and red- and blackberry notes that aren't buried by heavy-handed use of oak. The supple, smooth finish is a palate-pleaser. Tempting now, better after 2002 to take full advantage of the emerging aromas.
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