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為什麼去香港呢?? 我也說不上來...

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Constance Mei-Yen 寫於 201147 12:13

 從香港回來之後,最擔心別人問我:好不好玩?妳有沒有去吃這個、吃那個?因為我很難回答 (好在我老爸第一句話問我:累不累?  第一,不是每個旅遊經驗都只能用好玩不好玩形容 (就好像你如果問我,在美國教書那一年好不好玩?我就會很難回答一樣,事情應該不只這麼簡單?好吧,我承認,我是個想太多的人,所以不相信事情只有一種可能與答案);第二,我真的不是什麼美食達人,我是那種外出旅行為了多走多看多拍照,可以不吃東西的人,所以,要我為了旅遊書上介紹的美食不遠千里,實在有困難。「但是你去的可是香港啊!Shooping Eating Shopping Eating,沒聽過嗎?」  有啊!所以還是去了幾家名餐廳和所有的大景點,外加自己找到的都市小景點,真的很耗體力 (腿痠中)!!

 「到處都是人、到處都很窄」是一直阻止我拜訪香港的原因,「太好猜!」不用真的落地香港,我也猜得到會得到哪種經驗。可是今年有連假,但手上沒有太多錢,所以台灣附近找一找,能付擔的大概就是香港,為了滿足自己的旅行虛榮,還是有了屬於我的香港經驗。

 因為大家都在放連假,所以到處都有台灣人 (成群結伴的大學生最多)當然大陸遊客 (家庭旅行) 也不少,再加上一堆老外, 香港真是擠到爆 (看!!地鐵的門一開,從車廂中湧出的人群….Holy molly!我想起在台北搭捷運,偶爾還會有路人不太多的幾個站,可是在香港,每一站都有很多人,感覺每一站都像是台北車…) !到處都有人在拍照,在驚喜大叫,或是吆喝朋友東看西看,手中拿的就是那幾本在書店常見的香港旅遊書或地圖,讓我忍不住想知道,香港人自己對這種「氛圍」是如何適應的?如果是我,我不會想住在一個到都有觀光客、到處有人在拍照的城市,而且小到我找不到一個讓自己耳根清靜的地方,這個城市簡直就是被觀光客和他們的相機霸佔,要是我是香港人,我可能會覺得每天都被偷窺,我居住的城市最後只成為一張張數位相機裡可以被輕易刪除的照片,城市人民的生活、城市的精神非常不完整地存留在這些觀光客的記憶之中…..不過話說回來,每個旅者不都是用個人的經驗與觀點去解釋曾經待過的地方嗎? 畢竟,不是每個人都像人類學家一樣,有時間讓自己好好地入境隨俗啊(香港文化終究與我們差異不大,如果今天是前往巴布亞紐幾內亞的某個部落,事情又另當別論了…)

 有幾個有趣的巧合幾乎發生在我的每一次旅行:通常我到一個地方不久,就會被看成是當地人,會被問路波蘭經驗例外,因為我看起來就不會講波蘭文的樣子去紐約的第三天被問路;第二次到波士頓被問路 (第一次自己迷路,第二次就可以為別人指點迷津啦);在華盛頓特區的第二天被問路;前往芝加哥的數次中被問路不下三次;在夏威夷檀香山街頭閒逛時也被問路;連到香港的第二天我都被問路 (突然想到去吳哥窟時候沒有被問路)….我得意地告訴自己:「妳跟新環境融合地還真是快啊!走在街上就是有streetwise ,不然就是看起來像在當地住了很久的樣子,厲害吧?!」

 大家都知道,香港人開車右駕,走路靠左邊,跟英國人一樣;可是我發現,其實左右都有,而且「自成亂格會不會在所謂的大中華文化圈中,亂,就是我們的特色?能夠在亂中生存,才是我們的本事?在他人眼中缺乏秩序的事,我們反而能活出一種自信?  MTR港鐵裡面,行人上下或進出地鐵站有左右之分,但是沒有明確分線的地方大家基本上就是自己亂走,加上有各種外國觀光客大部分是靠右邊走路的外國人所以靠右也行,靠左的也有;不過上下公車或計程車,還是從左邊上車就是了。這麼一來,走路的過程就常常得「閃人」閃開差點迎面撞上的人多了一份不便。

 在「蓮香居」吃早點的時候,旁邊坐的剛好是台灣人,已經在香港住了二十多年,跟我小聊起來 (台灣政治時事、名嘴亂象、香港人的「不隨便放連假精神」這個詞是我自己想的。這個太太得知台灣正在放連假,所以路上店裡才會台灣人很多,就說起香港因為理解自己的「國際地位」,天天要跟全世界進行各種交易,是不太隨便放連假的,連西方文化看重的Christmas, 很多經濟方面從業人員也是不放假的…<這點我有點懷疑,如果說不放中國文化方面的假期也就罷了,畢竟要跟這麼多歐洲或美洲國家做生意,但是連外國人都放假的Christmas也不放,好像有點奇怪啊?美國股市不也有休市的時候嗎?> 、她在加拿大住了五年的經驗等等,最後還介紹我搭電車去看看從香港的郊區進入到市中心的景觀差異)  她教我喝蘭芳園的茶要「一盅」,然後要用熱茶洗一下餐具 (他們這邊沒什麼時間好好洗碗盤!她真的這樣跟我說耶不只如此,服務員收拾餐具的方式竟然是,用丟的!!磁器的匡啷聲此起彼落,好像一直在摔破碗,也難怪大部分的餐具都有缺角…) 然後準備向各種茶點進攻….說實話,一早就吃這些東西我有點不習慣,但決定一定要吃到叉燒包;可是等了好久,叉燒包就是沒來….後來還是這位來自台灣的太太幫我跟某個服務的歐巴桑 (蓮香居裡的服務員媽媽一般年紀的比較多) 商量幫我留一份 (因為叉燒包還沒推到我們這桌就被搶光了) 感恩啊!我終於吃到了叉燒包 (這是我在香港吃到最好吃的食物,當然啦,我知道這跟熱愛美食的旅者相比,實在不算什麼,但對我來說已經足夠。)

 去「蘭芳園」那天是四月四日,也不知道是不是隔天要放假的關係,還是人家原本就是下午六點打佯 (不太理美食的我自然不會去關心店家的營業時間) ,我大約是五點五十分到達的,雞扒麵吃到一半,發現店家已經開始收拾店面,嚇了一跳,差一點就吃不到了(這樣其實也只是讓我回台北之後,跟同樣去過香港的人聊起來,又差一間餐廳沒去過而已呀…) 絲襪奶茶也喝得猛快,雖然老闆並沒有趕人,但是看到一張張椅子被疊起來,好幾張桌子被清理乾淨,我實在很難不快點吃完…..真謝啦!我的冥冥中註定!

P.S. 後來與同事談起才知道,蘭芳園旁邊還有另一家(分店)營業比較晚,我去的那家是本店,比較早打佯。

 我訂到的離港班機是下午一點半,所以最後一天並沒有太多時間做長距離觀光。我一早五點半就起床,六點十分就去搭地鐵。最後的一個重點是搭乘「天星小輪」….可惜天氣總不會永遠聽人願,大清早的天色灰濛濛,有點要飄雨的樣子,所以旅遊書上說的「人生必遊的50個景點之一的維多利亞港」到了我的經驗中,變成了「青灰靜謐寒風襲」的氣氛,她的絕美,在我的記憶中,得加點對天晴的想像……整理照片的過程,必需刪掉那些晃動的畫面,人擠人以致於構圖不佳或是只照到一堆人頭的照片;另外,我發現我相機的white balance功能可能有點問題,有些照片的顏色和光很惱人,讓我覺得痛苦

< 照片為數眾多,目前放在 facebook:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?id=678869772&aid=292955 >

 

如果沒有了照片,留存腦中的記憶可以有多久?如果不要刻意跟其它旅人走不同的路線,有沒有辦法在一樣的旅途規劃中更多是旅遊書所訂下的「非看不可」規則看到不同的東西?? 過去的經驗與文化是否影響旅者觀看一地的角度?? 旅行之前的「想像」是否被刻意地在旅途中實踐?? 更重要的是,我是否因為這次的小旅行,更認識了我自己??  

  

表單的頂端

·         米酒西打說讚。

Lydia Chang 其實有時"好不好玩""有沒有吃什麼"?是一個問候及關心,希望打開這個話題,也希望在妳敘述的同時能有開心的感受!真的別想太多喔!

Lydia Chang 這次的香港行收穫滿滿喔......

Lydia Chang 我很羨慕妳有獨自旅行的能力與勇氣!我也很想嘗試.....

蔡大餅 文字很有魅力,好像是為了自己而旅行。

Constance Mei-Yen 沒有壓力啦...反正我只是想太多, 我當然知道大家是問候, OK

表單的底部

 

以下是英文版::

I still don't know why I visited Hong Kong...

Constance Mei-Yen 寫於 201146 15:46

I still don’t know why I wanted to visit Hong Kong. For some unknown reasons, I don’t really like to go to a busy city (since I don’t know when); but I would like to visit New York or Paris or London. Maybe it is because they are busy though, they are BIG enough to have variable activities and sights and smells and sounds and what’s the most important, you will have a place to hide yourself or think peacefully when you need serenity…..

 That’s why I still don’t understand why I visited Hong Kong.

My experience of visiting Hong Kong was transferring flights; the airport was the only place I truly “touched”.  But it is easy to imagine a city which is just a small dot on a world map but has 7 million people in there; it must be crowded, just like living in Taipei CityFor a city like Taipei or Hong Kong, it’s definitely not a good place for “relaxing” but a good place to do your traveling home work.  Yes, that was how I feel about visiting Hong Kong, I was doing a lot of “traveling home work”… (Alas, if I had more money and more holidays, I would like to choose Croatia or a small island of Greek to truly relax myself and enjoy my life in a different country. )

 I love walking; therefore I walked a LOT everyday while living in Hong Kong (now my legs are suffering from sore feet).  Besides those famous sights, I also released myself to those complicate and narrow alleys trying to find the real life of Hong Kong people and tried to fine out some secrets that were never revealed by travel books. (I have to mention something here: there were so many Taiwanese and Chinese tourists on the streets and in every sight seeing place, but it did not mean the Westerners don’t go to Hong Kong, I’ve also seen them on the MTRs and on the buses; but frankly, it was a disaster when lots of tourists squeeze together, push each other in order to get in a train or a business store or a restaurant or even just taking a picture.  CrapI could take lots of beautiful and tranquil pictures even in New York; but in Hong Kong, you get people in almost every picture—I always wonder, for the authors of those postcards, they must adjust their pictures by using computer soft wares, because it is IMPOSSIBEL to avoid taking a picture without tourists.   I admit this is one of my “traveling issues of photography”. If it is not really necessary, I prefer taking a picture of NO people.  So you can imagine how difficult this task was for me in Hong Kong. –Size does matterit is just TOO SMALL 

 (I couldn’t help but thought of this question while walking around in Hong Kong: Will I be happy to live in a city where tourists are everywhere and you see them holding cameras and posting gestures at every step of their move or at every street corner, every business building, every celebrated restaurant, and even every dish of their food?  NO NO NO!!!!….that is NOT my ideal city)

The result was that I had to walk and walk and walk all day (this also meant I had to figure out how to make myself  always on the correct roads but not some dead ends or wrong directions, because I only had limited time and I didn’t think I would visit Hong Kong again just for spending my holidays in the near future…it doesn’t mean Hong Kong has no countryside or some remote areas, I thought of going to those places but in this way, I might have no time to see those well-known sights and would have  no conversation with people who also have Hong Kong experience, it would look like you’ve been to New York, but you’ve never been to the Central Park, the MOMA, or the statute of Liberty, how odd? Hum? ) and tried to take some good pictures that showed my traveling routes and view points of this City.  (Please see my pictures of Hong Kong)   (In my “post-production”, I had to delete many pictures of swing sceneries like amusement park rides or pictures that simply were too sloppy because I was in a hurry or was push by other tourists…)

 Later I found out if you wanted to see a quieter Hong Kong, you had to get up in the early morning and that was what I did in the last day of my stay.  I woke up at 5:30am and took the early MTR at about 6:10am. WOW…..amazing Not many people in the MTRs, I could even take a picture without any people in it.  The sky was grey, the weather was cool and windy, and the air was resting.  That was the timing.  The traveling pictures often tell us part of the stories of the travelers and the places they’ve been to.  I was so happy for this benefit of getting up early.  I them went to take the “Star Ferry” with Hong Kong people (it was about 7 am, most of the tourists were still sleeping.  How could I know I was the only tourist at that time? Because I was the only one who used a camera and couldn’t stop walking around on the boat and also, I looked so excited.)  Before heading to the airport at 10:00am, I had seen a peaceful Hong Kong, I was satisfied.

 This time I write some descriptions of the pictures of Hong Kong, you will have a better understanding of my trip.  Don’t ask me if I love it. “LOVE” is a pretty strong word; since I tend to classified every my trip into several categories, so…Maybe it cannot be talked about just in a few words or some simple descriptions….Maybe, it was because I had given myself some “unusual” goals (such as “don’t touch people”, “don’t go to the famous restaurants”, or “don’t have any expectations” etc,. That was simply a mission impossible) of this trip so that when I encountered some situations, I had some unexpected reactions or thoughts—that, I will reveal to you when next time I see you……

 Perhaps sometimes it is not intending to do something different that makes you extraordinary, it is doing the same thing just like everybody else but finding a dissimilar angle for understanding them that makes you and your experiences unique.

 

台長: Constance M.Y.
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