The designers' Milan Fashion Week show celebrated mothers — but not in the way our culture needs
米蘭時裝周慶祝母愛 - 但不是以我們文化需要的方式
Mother’s Day arrived early this year in Italy, where Milan Fashion Week is currently taking place. Sunday’s Dolce and Gabbana show, named “Viva la mamma!,” was entirely dedicated to celebrating motherhood. A handful of models walked the runway with their children and babies, while “Mama” by the Spice Girls played. Model Bianca Balti, heavily pregnant with her second child, even walked in the show. Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have said the show was an homage to their own mothers.
今年義大利母親節好像來得早, 米蘭時裝周正在進行, 周日是Dolce & Gabbana的秀, 叫媽媽萬歲, 歡慶母愛. 一堆模特兒捧著她們的寶貝小孩走伸展台, 呈現辣媽的場景. 其中像Bianca, 正懷著第二胎, 也來走貓步. 設計師Domenico Dolce 和Stefano Gabbana說這場秀對自己母親的致敬
The collection on display matched the mother-loving theme: ultra-feminine shapes — think full skirts and cinched waists — with loads of lace and florals. Many of the garments were emblazoned with the word “Mamma” or had children’s drawings printed across them, in the same vein as Angelina Jolie’s wedding veil.
春季服裝秀搭配愛媽媽主題: 非常女性線條- 收腰長裙 - 一堆蕾絲花苞等等. 很多服裝還繡上媽媽等字眼, 或有小孩圖樣, 像裘莉新娘紗的設計
It’s hard to deny the actual collection is stunning, but the idea of the show itself left me cold. Celebrating motherhood is all well and good, but this display was an entirely shallow endorsement of women that smacks of a gimmick. The theme might be sweet and largely inoffensive — after all, who doesn’t love moms? — but it also stuck to a particularly narrow definition of mothers. In D&G’s world, motherhood is the most limiting archetype of all, where women are radiant and impossibly beautiful, but not truly sexual.
很難否認春季新款很驚世, 秀的創意本身讓我不寒而慄. 慶祝母愛是很好很棒, 但這樣的展示完全是膚淺的噱頭. 主題可能很甜蜜, 大部份無攻擊性, 反正, 誰不愛媽媽 - 但是, 這主題也挶束在狹礙的母親定義. 在D&G的世界裏, 母愛是最限制的人格原型, 在這原型中, 女人是光采動人, 不可能美麗, 也不全然性感.
Of course, it was nice to see a shape on the runway that falls outside the runway norm and isn’t pin-thin. One of the most justified and enduring criticisms of the fashion world is its reliance on ultra thin and, in some cases, unhealthy bodies. So props to Dolce and Gabbana, who asked Balti, clad in a form-fitting pink dress, to walk the runway. Alas, Balti was the only one on the runway who offered anything different, size-wise. (And, as others have pointed out, the models were mostly caucasian.) The rest of the models — even the new mothers — shared the typical model dimensions we’ve come to expect from fashion week.
當然, 樂見伸展台的演出跳脫一般的表現, 不是瘦到底. 時裝界最被垢病的其中一處是它依賴非常瘦, 看來不健康的身體.
But there’s a destructive side to flashily incorporating mothers-to-be and new mothers in a fashion show. In many ways our culture fetishizes mothers — and pregnancy — and the fashion and beauty industries are no different. Many women’s magazines and fashion websites have dedicated plenty of space to cataloging pregnant celebrities and their growing “bumps.” The very same publications devote even more attention to those women’s bodies after they give birth, either celebrating the return of a “pre-baby body” or tracking the struggle to bounce back to a so-called ideal.
但把懷孕媽媽, 新手媽媽囊括在服裝秀上蠻不好的. 我們的文化在很多方面很迷戀地把媽媽 - 懷孕 - 以及時髦 - 與美麗工業揉合在一起. 很多女性雜誌, 或時尚網路大篇幅刊登懷孕名人與他們正在成長的時髦小孩. 對於產後身材也給予大幅度的報導想吸引群眾目光. 對於產後迅速恢復產前身材給予很大的慶賀與肯定, 或者報導她們如何博鬥產後身材一直到恢復....
Unfortunately, much of our culture’s focus on new motherhood and pregnancy ends up revolving around women’s bodies and how they look. That context is hard to separate in a fashion show — which displays women’s clothing on women’s bodies — that also tries to honor motherhood, no matter how well-intentioned.
不幸地是, 我們的文化投注太多注意力圍繞在新型態的母愛與懷孕前後身材外貌的收放自如. 內容很難跟時裝秀分開, 時裝秀在展示婦女的身體穿著當季新款服識 - 也試圖榮耀母愛, 不管立意多美
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