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高山杜鵑花開在4~5月,藏匿深山中的杜鵑花很美,想要一親芳澤卻要跋涉數日;南湖大山這座帝王相之雄偉高山的杜鵑花更是知名,行這條路是一段艱辛的行程,因為23KM的路程上下爬升的汗水不知會流失幾公升。
聽說生長在南湖圈谷的杜鵑花開的最美麗;早就打定主意要走南湖一遭,但是坎坷的行程未走之前總有些不知體力是否勝任?其實不安的感覺一直存在心裡頭。
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勝光橋是此行登山的步行開始,車停在路旁整裝出發囉。
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此行共有8位同伴,有一半穿雨鞋、一半穿登山鞋,雨天穿雨鞋倒是一種優勢。
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穿出一片人家的蘋果園後,接著是一大片高山高麗菜園,這條宜蘭往梨山的幹道上,充斥著這種菜園景象,實在非常誇張,凡是能種植的地區,都種的密密麻麻,這如果不是浩劫?那算甚麼?
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上升、休息,休息、上升輪序進行直走到目的地,爬山就是這麼單純;不斷地跟自己的毅力挑戰,不停地跟自己的呼與吸調和。
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勝光橋走到這林道叉路口約2.3KM,這裡到今天的目的地「雲稜山莊」還要走6.9KM,這是第一段落。
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林道是早已廢棄不使用,走在其間坡度平坦和緩中逐漸上升,滿地掉落的松針如毯有彈性頗為舒適。
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往雲稜山莊4.9KM是林道終點,設有信箱要與此投遞入山證。
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6.8k之710林道的盡頭接下來的就是往南湖大山的步道了,背著沉重的背包走這條路的確是種挑戰。
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粉紅色的志佳陽杜鵑個頭不大,總是幾棵散落在樹林裡,沒有像高山杜鵑那麼可以引人讚嘆。
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松針鋪成的道路是這段的特色之一,還有松樹掛滿依附的松蘿也很漂亮;適合這種藻菌絲的環境需求是潮溼,多雨也是南湖大山的特色。
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行到8k處是著名景點「松風嶺」,一段起伏和緩的區域地上,滿滿厚厚、層層疊疊的松針猶如駝色的地毯。
很難得一見的美地,還好是深藏於山中;只有那些肯付出辛勞的登山客方能一見之外,少了人為的破壞也留存一份完整的美麗靜靜的與風共歲暮。
若可若不趕路;我願意逗留整日夜於此,好好的在這屬於精靈駐留的地方與精靈同樂之。
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過了松風嶺是一座2795m的多加屯山,今天雲層很多沒辦法看的遠,只能大概從雲霧中辨識對面雪山、聖稜線的等等。
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路過的第一個三角點~~~多加屯山三角點
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遠方的風起雲湧表示著天候的不穩定
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鐵杉林樹區被底下的箭竹所包圍,雖然鐵杉長的高大卻沒辦法顯出其雄偉的姿態。
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第一天的行程到這裡結束,「雲稜山莊」是一做很新穎的建築物,裡面也非常乾淨;爬南湖大山不會像玉山或雪山一般人數那麼熱鬧,人比較少的時候住起來很舒適。
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Day2:
這是「審馬陣山屋」,距離「雲稜山莊」約僅5km。~~昨晚已經開始下雨,今早穿上雨衣上路,今天臨時改行程走5km到這裡住宿。
氣象局的預測這幾天的下雨機率還算滿準確的,大家雖然嘀嘀咕咕,卻也只能認了。
預定行程原來是要過五岩峰下到南湖山屋的,不過風雨交加之中過五岩峰是有其危險性,嚮導選定了這緊急用途的小山屋,讓大家樂得一天只行5km的輕鬆行。
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泥濘的登山鞋加上濕透的一身,休息時實在非常不舒服,脫下濕冷的一身換上乾燥的衣物之後才使身體停止因冷而不斷的顫抖。
小小的山屋剛剛好擠進我們8位就滿載,中間小小走道剛好擺個火爐燒著開水、煮飯、烤鞋子、襪子....從中午開始大伙就窩在小屋蓋著睡袋或躺或睡或簇膝裡聊天打發時間。
夜裡好不容易開始睡覺等待明天的到來,卻不知從哪裡鑽出一隻不速之客在黑漆漆裡咬塑膠袋找東西吃,折騰了一陣子終於把它給解決了。
山屋的夜裡總會有許多小動物在覓食活動,這些小動物在已經狹窄的小屋的確引來一陣大家的「雞飛狗跳」的騷動。
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Day3:雖然天候依然一片灰蒙蒙、風勢依然強勁,不過大家的熱忱依然高亢,對於南湖大山依然躍躍欲試。
雖然能見度不佳,雨霧下的五岩峰的猙獰黑岩特別顯著,雨溼的裸岩及看不到遠處盡頭的未知之路,大家摸著繩索小心地往前進。
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高山圓柏在這段路上因長年迎著強勁的風霜雪雨的雕琢下姿態非常奇特,在這段驚險的路程中加添了一分驚喜,可以停下來欣賞大自然的佳作,也減輕了緊張的氣氛。
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能在此時惡劣天候臨近欣賞到這些千古奇樹,加上身處仙霧林中,奇岩相鄰的環境裡,真是非陽光普照時所能比擬。
是的!這是一種唯獨在國畫中意境才有的仙境~~行至此處,巧遇此景,人生乎復何求哉~~
五岩峰雖然驚險,但其中的松柏樹更讓人嘆為觀止,雲深不知處的的古意盎然而生。
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霧裡看花及雨中賞花別有一番滋味,雨所濕透的杜鵑花顯出特別它的嬌嫩欲滴感。
杜鵑花是一種耐得住風雨摧殘的花了,初開綻放的花朵屹立並沒有因風寒而失色。
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翻過這主峰稜線右下是要往中央尖山去的路,南湖加中央尖山縱走時間上或體力上都非同小可的事。
期待不久以後的將來有機會去中央尖山,看看這座美麗的尖山。
今天的雲霧阻擾了視線,不要說中央尖山,連南湖大山也吝嗇露出面貌來。
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接近南湖峰頂的一顆很像烏龜的岩石~~
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南湖大山位置是22.9k,此時看到22.8k主峰終於快抵達了。
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南湖大山 一等三角點 3742m高 百岳名列第8
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最開心的一件事就是上了南湖主峰,而且是大家在風雨中無所畏懼的前進而達成目標。
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四周蒼茫芒白霧霧,無法鳥瞰四周景色;此時的風大又飄雨,讓人無法久待,今天也只有我們這幾位不懼艱辛者抵達此地了!
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鑽過這觀音洞,離主峰三角點已經不遠了(有人在山洞裡粘了一座小小乖觀音像)
再次鑽出洞,接下來行程是前往南湖東峰了~~~
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南湖大山東峰係由岩板所構成的山,十分特殊的地型;在今天這種氣候下黑黑的岩板塊尤其顯出它的嚴峻。
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南湖大山東峰 高度3632m 也是台灣百岳之一 名列第14
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回程再次經過「松風嶺」,天氣有如第一天是個多雲無雨的日子。
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為了一睹南湖大山真面目,我只能說我要再回來~~~
爬山並不一定每次都攻上頂,也不一定都是晴朗好天氣~~
但是所經歷的過程就是一種滿滿的收穫,記憶裡的一個絕佳話題了~~
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葉兄推薦礁溪的~~~蒜味肉粳
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爬完4天流汗的行程,洗個礁溪溫泉熱水澡是絕對的享受。
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